Breakfast to dinner – what to drink on Christmas Day

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Enjoying a glass of fine wine or a zippy cocktail on Christmas Day is an indulgent delight. Here, Alexandra Gray de Walden explains why these special moments can be shared and enjoyed at any time on 25th December.

One of my favourite things about Christmas Day is how the world, seemingly, comes to a standstill. There can be no better opportunity to luxuriate, uninterrupted, in the company of family and friends; better yet, with some indulgent food and remarkable drinks.

In my family, some of our most cherished Christmas traditions developed from the day’s food and drink. Perhaps it is the same in your household? We kick off, naturally, with breakfast.

“I hadn’t the heart to touch my breakfast. I told Jeeves to drink it himself.” – P.G. Wodehouse

I favour scrambled eggs and smoked salmon (or a more sustainable alternative like smoked trout or gravadlax) for Christmas breakfast. Ideally, eggs with yolks as golden as the Angel Gabriel’s wings, topped with a liberal dusting of black pepper and a deluge of lemon juice on the fish. Naturally, this is a dish rich in oil, so you need a drink to cut through it with enough acidity and vibrancy. This calls for bubbles.

While I am a great advocate for the excellent sparkling wines produced here in England, my preference for Christmas breakfast is always Champagne – particularly, Champagne Gosset. Gosset is the oldest wine producer in Champagne and sits in the Grand Cru village of Aÿ. What makes it so perfect for the task of cutting through that fish oil and the buttery eggs is that Gosset is made without the use of malolactic fermentation. This is a common fermentation in winemaking where harder malic acid is converted into softer lactic acid, making for a more rounded, plush mouthfeel. By forgoing this process, Gosset’s wines have a more acute and zesty acidity which is just what is called for here.

Gosset’s Grande Réserve is all you need for Christmas breakfast – zesty, refreshing and ever-so-bubbly. Plus, if you would prefer to keep a clearer head for the day, it makes a tremendous Bucks Fizz or Mimosa.

Those of you who prefer a meatier way of breaking your fast, here’s a suggestion for you. The “full English”, complete with bacon, sausages and (my personal favourite) black pudding is a carnivorous dream when paired with an aged Bordeaux or a rich Rioja.

Our 2018 Own Selection St Estèphe from Château Tronquoy is a Merlot-dominant blend with rich, ripe flavours of plum, celeste cherry and a graphite-like note to the finish. The 2015 Señorio de Amézola, Reserva Rioja from Amézola de la Mora   has its own meaty flavours with notes of equestrian leather – just perfect.

Pre-prandial cocktails

I daren’t open the lid on the debate of Christmas lunch versus Christmas dinner and which is better. If you favour the latter as your main event, then why not consider a pre-dinner cocktail?

My go-to for pre-prandial sipping is always a Bloody Mary. With Polish lineage on one side of my family, I would have to recommend Potocki rye vodka as your base. For extra richness and salinity, add a healthy dose of Fino Sherry to your Bloody Mary. Our Own Selection Fino from Bodegas Emilio Lustau has a delightful sea-breeze quality to it marrying beautifully with the spices – akin to oysters and Tabasco sauce.

Let’s not forget that the very purpose of an apéritif is to awaken the palate and the olfactory system in readiness for enjoying flavoursome food. This is where a sparkling wine comes into play again as the acidity and the fizz rouse the tastebuds.

For something fizzy with a festive colour, try a Sloe Gin Fizz. Light, crisp and refreshing, the dry finish of the Champagne and the citrus zest from the lemon twist ensure you’re all set to enjoy the grand performance.

The main event

It might divide opinion like Marmite but there’s no escaping that turkey is a Christmas classic. If you’re serving yours with cranberry sauce, something as fun as a sparkling rosé will be delightful. The acidity in the cranberry and wine, both with bright, red fruit flavours add more texture and depth to your turkey.  

One of my most memorable Christmas dinners was a homemade beef Wellington. With rich mushroom purée, tender beef and possibly even some prosciutto, there are lots of intermingling flavours competing here. Something with a bit of peppery spice, like an Australian Shiraz or a St Emilion will really complement those mushrooms and the juicy beef.

Pudding and cheese

Once the detritus of the main event has been cleared (and a suitable period of digestion and good conversation has passed), it is time for pudding, followed by cheese.

It’s likely that pudding will be either the traditional Christmas pudding or Christmas cake – each is rich in dried fruit, warming spices and even sometimes a touch of smoke – not always intentionally. With the added sweetness of marzipan and icing on your Christmas cake and perhaps some brandy butter with Christmas pudding, whatever you decide to drink will need a decent amount of sweetness to match.

Thankfully, the wines which match well with your Christmas cake or pudding are also well-matched with your cheeseboard. Take the best-known sweet wine of Bordeaux – Sauternes. This is a time-honoured pairing for blue cheese, with its honeyed fruit quality and luscious texture. Reminiscent of dried citrus fruits, it also plays an excellent second fiddle to the spiced fruits of the pudding and cake.   

Port is an eminently traditional pairing for the latter courses of dinner. A vibrant and bright Ruby Port invigorates the bloom and texture of any cheese. Or why not try a Tawny Port with mince pies for an eruption of spice and rich fruit flavours? Perhaps Father Christmas would prefer that to his nip of brandy when he visits your house?

For something a little off-piste, try Hungary’s sweet Tokaji wines. They often have a note of rye bread or marmalade which taste beautiful with a robust cheese. They’re also sweet enough to enjoy with your pudding, especially a Tokaji Aszú, made with botrytised grapes for extra-concentrated levels of sugar.    

Dropping off with a digestif

As we reach the post-dinner (or lunch) slump, it’s finally that time of day when we can really unwind. Wrapping paper has been shredded, the King has made his speech and the cook of the household can put their feet up. Tummies are likely to be quite full by now so you might be in the mood for a digestif.     

For something classic, there’s a lot to be said for a coating whisky, a smooth Cognac or a rich Armagnac. Neat, on the rocks, with a splash of water – whichever way, just make sure it’s to your taste. Christmas is too special a time for drinking something you don’t enjoy.

For a Berry Bros. & Rudd twist, a King’s Penicillin cocktail harnesses the digestive power of ginger from our King’s Ginger Liqueur, mixed with our Speyside Sherry Cask 12-Year-Old single malt. Warming and soothing, this is best enjoyed with a roaring log fire or your favourite blanket on the sofa – a right royal way to close a magical day with those you love and the moments that make it special.