The Douro valley is rightly known for its fortified wines. But its table wines are also well worth exploring, as Barbara Drew MW explains.

When I mention Portugal as a wine-producing country, the reaction is invariably, “Ah yes, Port!” This is often followed by “Ooh, too sweet”, “too alcoholic”, or “not for me”. Those misconceptions are for another article (in short, Port definitely is for you). But for today I want to focus on the still or table wines of Portugal.

This is slightly confusing terminology for the uninitiated and refers to wines that are not fortified; that are made in the same way as other red wines from around the world; wines that in any other region would simply be called “wine”.

The Douro river valley – situated in northern Portugal and heartland of Port production – has to be one of the most beautiful wine regions in the world; a lofty accolade amongst some heavy competition. The river wends and winds between sculpted hillsides and wild vistas. At times it can feel like there is almost nothing else there except slopes and vines and the occasional boat. For centuries the region has been associated with fortified wines – aged in huge warehouses down at the port of Vila Nova de Gaia (just across the river from the city of Porto).

And the grapes that lend themselves so well to these complex, layered and fruit-driven fortified wines are also superb in unfortified wines.

Portugal’s native grapes

Portugal has a wealth of native grape varieties. They thrive in the hot and dry climate of the country’s interior, retaining their acidity and fresh fruit flavours when temperatures soar. Touriga Nacional is perhaps the most recognised – despite accounting for just a few percent of plantings in the country. Other key red grapes include Tinta Roriz (aka Tempranillo), Tinta Francesca, Tinto Cão, Bastardo, Mourisco Tinto, Tinta Amarela and Tinta Barroca.

Most of these grapes tend to produce quite low yields in this harsh and often arid region. The soils here are very poor and the slopes are steep; most vineyards are either built on steep terraces, supported by hand-constructed retaining walls, or else are planted on gently sloping vineyards. Flat land and mechanical harvesters are alien around these parts. The paltry numbers of grapes per vine allow for concentration, of deep colour, high tannin and plenty of flavour.

The resulting wines are magnificent, perfectly balanced despite their full flavours and dense tannins. In addition, some classic French varieties have also found their way here. Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah thrive on the right sites, and are used for the local Vinho Regional wines. Similar to France’s Vin de Pays or Italy’s IGT designation, the Vinho Regional wines allow for more flexibility in how the wine is made – and can offer some of the most innovative, and great value wines to be found.

Whites from the Douro

Whilst the region is very much associated with red grapes, white grapes do thrive here. Many go into the small proportion of White Port produced each year – delicious served with tonic and ice on a warm summer’s day. But some are destined for unfortified wines. The names will test the pronunciation of even the most adept linguist, with Rabigato, Gouveio, Codega, Donzelinho, Malvasia Fina and Viosinho among the list. Many of these grapes are planted on cooler sites, be that north-facing terraces, vineyards that are in shade for the majority of the day or areas at higher altitudes. This, combined with their naturally high acidity, and early picking, results in delightful dry white wines. Often with slightly floral and fruity flavours, these wines are refreshing and balanced.

For me, they are often a failsafe go-to, if you’re not sure if guests will enjoy an oaked Chardonnay or a bright and pungent Sauvignon Blanc. These are white wines which truly have the best of all worlds. Top wines may spend some time in oak, but overall the fruit and mineral character tends to dominate. Like almost all Portuguese wines, they are also criminally underpriced.

Where to find them

This trend towards producing dry table wines began with a handful of Port producers, looking to branch out, develop new products and use grapes not ideally suited to their Ports. Now however almost all Port producers also make table wines. These are no mere product extensions though; there are increasingly fine wines in their own right.

Some take inspiration from other parts of the world. Chryseia, for example, is a collaboration between the Symingtons, locals who have been making Port for centuries, and Bruno Prats, originally of Bordeaux. The glossiness and slight herbal note evident in many good Bordeaux wines also shines through in this example, despite it being made entirely from local grapes (Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca). Others make determinedly local expressions, highlighting the huge range of grape varieties that have made their home here. These may use differing proportions of grapes each year or even field blends (where different varieties are all planted together in one vineyard and harvested at once). Some pick early for fresh, zesty styles. Others age for many months in oak barrels, to add spice and breadth to these hearty wines.

Whichever style you prefer, there is something here for you. And of course, to round off your meal, there’s always a Port.

Three to try

2022 La Rosa Reserve Branco, Quinta de la Rosa, Douro, Portugal

A beautiful white wine, fragrant and floral with a touch of texture from some oak ageing. The blend is 60% Viosinho, 25% Rabigato, 5% Gouveio, and 10% a mixed field blend. One of the most versatile white wines I have yet come across.

2021 Estate Tinto, Quinta de la Rosa, Douro, Portugal

Dominated by Touriga Nacional (60%) this is a delightful expression of a Douro red, coming primarily from the high-altitude Lamelas vineyard. The nose is bright with raspberry syrup and plums, with some smoky spice. The tannins are silky, the acidity is refreshing and the flavours unfold in elegant layers. It is perfect for mid-weight dishes, lamb or duck.

2017 Chryseia, Prats & Symington, Quinta de Roriz, Douro, Portugal Seven years after harvest, this has a huge amount of concentration and complexity on the nose. Dark berry fruits and floral notes appear initially, with aromas of dark chocolate, mocha, roast coffee bean and spicy hints of pepper and clove. The palate is full, multi-layered, and supple, with an excellent level of concentration and ripe tannins providing a considerable structure to the wine. As with the best Bordeaux wines, can be enjoyed now, but will reward further cellaring.

For centuries, Thanksgiving has been as big a celebration as Christmas in the USA – if not bigger. This year, we’re hosting our very own Thanksgiving dinner in the cellars of No.3 St James’s Street, celebrating the array of flavours and dishes that have become tradition across the pond. Whether you’ll be joining us, or you’re looking to host your own feast at home, we’ve put together a selection of our favourite bottles that pair well with classic American flavours.

The star of any Thanksgiving feast is, of course, the turkey. In the UK, our Christmas traditions mean we’re well-practiced at finding wines to pair with this most seasonal of birds. As our Christmas feasting guide recommends, a fruity, lower-tannin Zinfandel or Beaujolais Cru, or a riper Chardonnay would match beautifully.

More of a challenge are those dishes less familiar to the UK palate – those rich in a combination of sugar and salt, often featuring heavy influences of fruit, or sweeter vegetables. Most Thanksgiving food is heavy, and served in abundance. With this in mind, opting for lighter wines is a good rule of thumb – think wines that are lower in alcohol, with less noticeable oak, and fresh flavours that won’t overwhelm your already saturated palate.

Stuffing

Christmas dinner lovers, beware – this isn’t the stuffing you might be used to, but it’s no less delicious. Stuffing, or “Thanksgiving dressing”, tends to be a combination of cubed bread – either toasted, or a little stale – sliced vegetables like onion and celery, butter, dried herbs, and broth, all baked together until crisp. Variations might have dried cranberries, apples or sausage meat.

There are so many flavours going on here, that you’ll want a wine that can complement as many of them as possible. A Pinot Noir would be a great option – ideally one from Oregon or New Zealand, where the fruit is bolder than its Burgundian counterparts. This vibrancy will match any fruit in the dish, while keeping enough acidity to cut through the stodgier bread and broth elements. If you’re opting for a white wine, a Côtes du Rhône Blanc would do the trick – the earthier, sage and thyme flavours will strike a pleasant chord with the herbal elements of the dressing.

Sweet potatoes

Sweet potatoes are a stalwart of the Thanksgiving table. Perhaps one of the best-known (and more controversial) versions of it is the sweet potato casserole, a baked mash, mixed with spices like cinnamon and nutmeg, and often topped with marshmallows or pecans.

It’s not a common dish in the UK, but that doesn’t mean anyone enjoying it can’t easily find a wine to match. The key flavour here is sweetness – and lots of it. So, any wine that stands a chance of holding its own needs to have a fair whack of fruitiness, body and complexity to it. An off-dry Riesling would work, as would a Gewürztraminer – the spicy, warming flavours of ginger, clove and nutmeg in the latter combine beautifully with earthy sweet potato.

Green bean casserole

The humble green bean casserole deserves far more worldwide love than it currently holds. The original recipe was devised by an employee of Campbell’s soup, and was a combination of the company’s cream of mushroom soup, green beans, milk and soy sauce, topped with fried onions and baked.

It’s savoury, rich and high in umami flavours – so it needs a high-acid yet weighty wine to balance it out well. This is where Riesling can really shine. Opt for a full-bodied bottle where citrus flavours dominate – you’re going to want a wine that feels like it cuts through the creamy sauce, refreshing your palate and keeping you invigorated.

Pumpkin and pecan pies

Nothing says Thanksgiving more than a pie. Pumpkin is by the far the best-known iteration – but for those not a fan of its earthier flavours, pecan pies offer an alternative.

There are a few different ways you can approach dessert. Most people like a sweet wine with puddings: the nutty, complex flavours of a Tawny Port would combine wonderfully with pecans or anything featuring butterscotch.

For something a little different though, a Cava could be a fantastic option. With slightly earthier tones to it than other sparkling wines, it can enhance and balance these flavours in a pumpkin pie – while its acidity and bubbles help cleanse the palate after what we can imagine will have been a long, heavy meal.

Want more recommendation for pairing festive dishes with wine? Read our guide to Christmas food and wine here.

Our team are full of delicious recommendations when it comes to pairing Asian flavours with wine. We asked our colleagues across our four Asia offices (Tokyo, Hong Kong, Bangkok and Singapore) to share some of their favourite regional dishes and the bottles they’ll be uncorking alongside them. Warning: their recommendations will make you hungry.  

Jun Shibata, Marketing Executive, Tokyo 

Izakaya pub favourites with Own Selection Pessac-Léognan 

Japan, while abundant in sunlight, is also an extremely water-rich nation. As its snow-capped peaks gradually melt from spring to summer, this water not only feeds the rice fields, but also nourishes an array of mountain herbs and spices unique to this terrain. Sansho (Japanese pepper) and shiso leaves (known as perilla in the west), all play an important part in seasoning the dishes that grace the tables of Japan’s izakayas by night. It’s hard to believe that beef was only brought to Japan from the West a mere 150 years ago, with it now being a fixture of the national cuisine.  

A more robust cut of beef, seasoned with these Japanese herbs, goes very well with the herbaceous character of certain Bordeaux wines. One of my favourites is shigureni, a beef dish simmered in sweetened soy sauce and ginger. You slowly simmer the beef, enough for the ginger and soy sauce to soak into it, while taking care not to overcook it so the meat retains its bite and texture. Season it with sansho, one shiso leaf and a dash of freshly cut spring onions. It’ll balance beautifully with the plum and cassis notes in our Own Selection Pessac-Léognan. 

Joey Luo, Account Manager, Bangkok  

Sichuan cuisine with Moscato, Lambrusco and Riesling  

As someone from Sichuan, I’m often asked whether the region’s famously spicy food can pair well with wine. With its fiery heat and numbing sensation, the complex combination of flavours, textures, and aromas in Sichuan dishes can make wine pairing a challenge. However, I always encourage people to play around, especially with a multi-course meal, because there are actually plenty of great wine options.  

Let’s start with one of my favorite dishes: Sichuan boiled fish (shui zhu yu) or Sichuan boiled beef (shui zhu niu). This popular Sichuan dish is also my go-to choice when I’m abroad and craving something spicy. While hotpot typically requires a group to enjoy, these two dishes can easily be savoured solo. 

Shui zhu-style dishes are rich in chillies and Sichuan peppercorns, which, in my opinion, are the heart of any authentic Sichuan dish. The peppercorns have a unique, almost addictive fragrance and create that signature numbing sensation. 

When pairing wine, it’s important to remember a few principles: sweetness can help temper the heat, while youthful, fruity wines work well because their dryness and subtle sweetness complement the aromatic complexity of Sichuan flavors. Wines with bubbles or good acidity can also refresh your palate between bites. 

Given these guidelines, there are plenty of great options. Moscato or Lambrusco, with their lightly sweet bubbles, can help calm the spice. German Riesling, such as our off-dry Mosel Riesling or Weingut Robert Weil’s dry Trocken, would be my go-to bottles for a casual Sichuan food night. If you prefer red wine, opt for a young, fruity wine like a Chilean Merlot.  

Darren Lee, Account Manager, Singapore  

Eva Fricke Riesling with Cantonese dim sum 

Fans of German Rieslings may be familiar with Eva Fricke, a superstar producer of dry Rieslings in Rheingau. I had the opportunity to taste her 2023 release of Rheingau, Kiedrich and Schlossberg in our Singapore office just last month and was particularly fond of the Kiedrich, a village-level dry Riesling. It has complex tropical fruits on the nose, citrus peel on the palate and a touch of salinity on the finish – a very well-balanced expression.  

This will be a delightful match for the delicate flavours and textures of dim sum. Imagine yourself in a bustling Cantonese restaurant enjoying a variety of dim sum paired with a refreshing glass of dry Riesling – a perfect afternoon for me. 

Har gow (steamed prawn dumplings) first comes to mind. The wine’s crisp acidity cuts through the richness of the shrimp filling, while its citrus notes and minerality enhance the natural sweetness and subtle umami notes of the shrimp. 

Consider also pairing it with siu mai (steamed dumplings with pork and shrimp filling). The acidity of the wine balances the savoury richness of the pork and shrimp filling, while its citrus notes complement the ginger and spring onion accents. 

My favourite pairing is with char siu bao (steamed bun filled with barbecued pork), a Singapore office favourite that a colleague always buys for the team for breakfast. With its rich, sweet-savoury flavours, char siu bao are best complemented by a refreshing dry Riesling for a perfectly balanced gastronomic experience. 

Jonathan Leung, Account Manager, Hong Kong  

Chaozhou cuisine with Champagne, Burgundy and more  

Chaozhou cuisine really stands out in the Guangdong culinary scene, and as someone who’s half Chaozhou, I can’t get enough of it. Located along the coast, Chaozhou in Guangdong is known not just for its mountain delicacies but also for its incredible seafood.  

First up is the Chaozhou oyster omelette, a true local classic that I always order. The crispy base is made from a mix of tapioca and wheat flour, and it’s packed with spring onions, coriander, pepper, fish sauce, and of course, the star of the show: fresh mini oysters. Fried to perfection, the omelette is both crispy and chewy, while the half-cooked oysters are sweet and briny with a wonderful minerality. For this dish, I’d recommend the 2017 Leclerc Briant Abyss Brut Zero, which has a refreshing acidity and bubbles that cut through the richness of the fried dish. Its minerality complements the oysters beautifully, making it a fantastic pairing.  

Next, we have Chaozhou braised foie gras. Unlike the French pan-seared version, Chaozhou foie gras is known for its delicate texture with a pink hue. Soaked in a flavourful braising liquid with spices like Sichuan pepper, star anise, cinnamon, licorice, and dried tangerine peel, it’s aromatic without being heavy. To match such rich flavors, I suggest a multi-layered wine like a Burgundy Premier Cru, particularly the 2018 Camille Giroud Chambolle-Musigny Les Borniques, which boasts plenty of fruit and sweet spices. Another great option is the spice-forward 2010 Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino: with its balanced tannins and acidity, it reveals dried fruit, tangerine peel and olive notes – an exceptional pairing. 

For a modern twist, some contemporary Chaozhou dishes soak the foie gras in whisky, resulting in a tender and smooth texture with a delightful malt aroma. Pair it with the rich, fruity 2008 Berry Bros. & Rudd Balmenach from Speyside for a truly exceptional combination. 

Joshua Friend is one of our Senior Account Managers, based in London. Earlier this year, he took the opportunity to work in our Hong Kong office for two months. He was warmly welcomed by our Hong Kong colleagues, with whom he shared many memorable meals and wonderful wines.

“Fancy working in Hong Kong for a few months, Josh?” 

“Yeah, alright then!”

I’m paraphrasing, of course; life isn’t quite so simple, but I was delighted to be offered an opportunity to work in Hong Kong for two months and quickly found myself on a 14-hour flight heading east. 

Having never visited Asia, let alone Hong Kong, my nerves were drowned out by excitement. My first challenge, having collected my luggage from the extremely smooth Hong Kong International Airport, was to negotiate my way to my hotel without any cash. After a long flight the occasional grunt from the cab driver was enough conversation to satisfy us both. I pulled up to my sky-scraping hotel; at first glance it was clear that I would be living the high life in Fortress Hill (literally up on the 19th floor), overlooking Tsim Sha Tsui and Victoria Harbour. After successfully checking in and catching up on much-needed sleep, it was time to meet my new colleagues.  

I was greeted with open arms and a compulsory dim sum lunch invitation; the much-anticipated lunch quickly came around. Being a newbie in Asia and having a Western palate, they were very keen to test me: I was told that I have the chopsticks ability of a young child, which I took as a compliment. A delicious array of dim sum was washed down ’09 Lafite, ’17 Le Clos Blanc de Vougeot by Vougeraie and ’17 Les Chapaudaises by Guiberteau; as first days go, it was not so bad. 

The food in Hong Kong more than lives up to its reputation. I was offered an abundance of recommendations, all of which exceeded expectations. A very small recommendation, but if you find yourself in Central and fancy a quick bite for lunch, visit Big JJ’s Seafood Hotpot restaurant – their beef noodles are cheap and delicious.  

How can I talk about food in Hong Kong without mentioning hot pot? Everyone I met in and outside of work was so welcoming, and invitations to dinners and lunches were hard to decline, especially when they knew full well that I didn’t have any mates in the city and had zero plans. I’m proud to say that I had hot pot on four consecutive Fridays in a row. If you’re unfamiliar with hot pot, it’s essentially a big boiling spicy broth in the middle of the table that you dunk fine cuts of meat and vegetables into over three to four hours. They are social and fun, and the food is exceptional. The novelty takes a while to wear off, but I don’t think I could have stomached a fifth.  

Hong Kong’s appeal as a wine trade hub is multifaceted. The city’s strategic location, free-market economy, and lack of tariffs on wine imports have made it an attractive destination for wine producers and merchants, like us. One of the most noticeable differences between the UK and Hong Kong was how price-savvy customers are. Due to the lack of restrictions, any Tom, Dick and Harry can set up a wine company if they have sufficient funds, meaning that just a £10 difference in price can be the difference between a sale and no reply to an email.  

This is where service is so important. If you want attentive, empathetic and thoughtful service, speak to one of our Hong Kong Account Managers. Their passion and love for wine is second to none. Customers always come first with every decision made. Their exquisite wine dinners rival our amazing events in our cellars at No.3 St James’s.  

After countless wine tastings, four consecutive hot pots and many calorific dim sum lunches balanced by beautiful weekend hikes, my two-month secondment in Hong Kong came to an end. It was an invaluable experience that was both professionally rewarding and personally enriching. If you ever get offered the chance to visit my new favourite city, take it.