This spring, we’re turning the spotlight onto four of our Own Selection bottles that are perfect for seasonal sipping. In the first of our mini audio series, Ben Chan from our BBX team tells us why the 2020 Mosel Riesling is a firm favourite of his.
“The 2020 Mosel Riesling is one of my favourite Own Selection wines. Selbac-Oster have been based in the Mosel for 400 years. They make classic wines with excellent fruit purity, with lots of fresh citrus fruits and green apple. They’re good occasion wines, so a bottle of this would be nice with a picnic in the park.”
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Spring is here. The trees are thickening with blossom and the evenings are ever lighter, calling for a wine with an energy to match. Our Own Selection Chablis is delicious for spring evenings, and quite a treat when paired with a variety of dishes.
As the evenings lighten, I find myself craving lighter wines too. There is a palpable lift as we leave winter behind us. The gasp of magnolias, unspooling blooms of wisteria, the evening light on the Thames. There is so much brightness in the air, and yet, it is still crisp and cool. Perhaps illogically, I find myself gravitating to wines of this character too.
Berry Bros. & Rudd’s Own Selection Chablis is a mainstay of my “everyday” repertoire. That’s not to say that I drink it every day, but rather, it is a wine I turn to when I’m looking for something delicious to enjoy with a midweek supper, or if I’m going to a friend’s house for lunch. It is gorgeously fresh, almost steely, yet balanced by a hint of ripeness. It has notes of crisp orchard fruits – like the first bite into a perfect apple – with those characteristic flashes of iodine and salty oyster shell. Made from the Chardonnay grape, the complete absence of oak means it retains a delicate fruit purity, speaking to the cool climate in which the grapes are grown. It is this cool-climate profile that makes it such a fantastic partner for food, as its subtle flavours are more likely to complement – rather than overpower – a meal.
With a high acidity and refreshing character, this Chablis would match beautifully with lighter vegetable dishes, such as seared lemon asparagus or roasted cabbage quarters. Cabbage has a bad reputation in this country – the scourge of 1960s schoolchildren, I’m told (I wasn’t there) – but this dish is a delight. Beautifully crispy on the outside, slippery and tender on the inside. For a delicious Sichuan-inspired pairing, you could also pan-fry it, finely shredded, with the “fish-fragrant” combination of ginger, garlic, soy sauce and vinegar. The wine’s crispness will balance out the moreish, umami salt-and-vinegar flavours very nicely.
For a dish with a more romantic touch, try it with a crab linguine with chilli and parsley (extra points for fresh pasta). Chablis, in general, is seen as a classic match for seafood, its subtle minerality matching very nicely with the slightly iodine flavour in fish. It also plays well with the ingredients that often accompany seafood – lemon, fresh herbs, asparagus and green beans – all of which have delicate flavours that are easily overpowered by more robust wines.
Having said that, the steely acidity here will also stand up to richer dishes, cutting through the fat very nicely. I’m thinking dishes of the gloopy, cheesy variety, such as rarebit toasts or even a simple buttery spud loaded with cheese and beans. A gratin dauphinoise would make a slightly more sophisticated match, and it’s a beautiful (and generous) centrepiece for a dinner party. Such a versatile wine is sure to go down a treat around the table, given its ability to match with a variety of cuisines and dishes.
But if you really don’t feel like cooking, a box of fish and chips will do just nicely. Pour yourself a large glass of perfectly chilled Chablis, and you’re all set.
We’re delighted to open the doors to our new dedicated Spirits Shop this spring. Our store is staffed by passionate experts who live and breathe fine spirits, always on the hunt for the rare, the exceptional or the funky. Let us introduce you to our team.
Eddie Garner
Spirits Advisor
“What comes to mind when I think spirits? It would be easy to romanticise about a warming smoky dram from Islay, the creamy roundness of Tequila, the rich diversity of rum, or the refreshing fervour of gin. But rather than any one style, I find myself instead pondering the idea of growth.
Spirits in general are booming; never before has their reach been so grand. From Scotland to Japan, Scandinavia to New Zealand, spirits are everywhere. You can barely toss a stone without hitting the newest brand of gin.
For me, whisky is at the heart of the spirits world (once the “heads” and “tails” of the distillate have been separated, the “heart” is what remains, after all). There are plenty of distilleries with a tumultuous tale of closures behind them, but today the narratives are all about resurrection.
On Islay alone, Port Ellen and Port Charlotte distilleries plan to re-open this year, planting their flags on hallowed whisky ground. Whether it’s a new success story or the return of an old favourite, these industry titans are indicative of today’s spirits climate.
I believe that we are in a rare place in history, in which tradition and innovation collide. We’re seeing the rise of modern, future-focused spirits, emerging alongside a resurgence in historic distilleries. To have both these worlds asserting themselves in the spirits industry means the door is wide open. There is so much to explore.
Given my way, you’ll find me enjoying a wintry dram from the Isle of Raasay or indulging in the rituals of Bruichladdich’s “Black Arts”. In summer, nothing hits the spot quite like Pensador Tequila or Berry Bros. & Rudd’s Own Selection Réunion Rum.”
Josh Meyer
Spirits Advisor
“A brief stint practicing as a solicitor in the City of London, and some WSET wine exams later, I joined Berry Bros. & Rudd as a Wine & Spirits Advisor, charged with looking after the London Shop’s Spirits section, along with the wines of Spain, Portugal, Southern France and Jura.
What I love about spirits – and why I’m delighted to be guiding customers in our brand-new dedicated shop – is that this remains a category where, if you know where to look, it is possible to discover fantastic value.
In specialist spirits circles, people wax lyrical about the distillates of yesteryear, but the truth is that there are true gems out there at all price points today. Some of the newer faces on the block – Ardnamurchan Distillery in the Highlands, Isle of Raasay off the coast of Skye, English rum-makers Scratch, to name only a few – are displaying exceptional talent.
It is particularly inspiring to work for an institution with its own illustrious history of independent bottlings. The noses that pick out these single casks, as well as those for our exclusive barrel selections, are some of the best in the business. Taking customers through our quarterly releases is one of the real joys of the job.
I’m engaged professionally and privately in the assessment (and consumption) of all spirits categories. But if I were forced to name some styles I seek out the most, they’d be peated whiskies (not just Islay), high ester rums (Jamaica and Trinidad) and earthy Mezcals (such as Tepextate and Tobalá).
I am currently a student on the WSET Diploma in Wines. Sensory analysis is sensory analysis; the more complex, high-quality juice you taste, the better your judgment of all things liquid.
I really look forward to helping you discover delicious new spirits at No.1 St. James’s Street.”
Iain Glover
Spirits Advisor
“Becoming a Spirits Advisor at Berry Bros. & Rudd was a small step on a very long road.
My great-grandfather ran an illicit still in the Highlands; my grandfather was the landlord of the Prince Alfred pub in Maida Vale (and appreciated a good dram); and my father introduced me to Berry Bros. & Rudd itself, when he invited me to join him at a whisky tasting event in the cellars at No.3 St James’s Street.
I was working as a brewer when I first stepped foot in the Napoleon Cellar, but I left with a suspicion that the time had come to leave beer behind and start moving up the ABVs. Luckily, this was at the time that Berry Bros. & Rudd was plotting to open a new, dedicated spirits shop.
It is an extremely exciting time to be working in the spirits industry. There are a whole range of wonderful spirits being produced – whiskies, Tequilas, Cognacs and more. Two of a distillery’s finest tools are patience and time and, as we see an increase in each distillery’s stock of aged liquids and in different types of wood, we should see an even greater variety of high-quality bottlings appearing.
I have a particular soft spot for rum and Bourbon, and have been fortunate enough to sample some incredible bottles during my time at Berry Bros. & Rudd. With so many new distilleries and releases available, sampling and learning about spirits has never been more necessary. Indeed, we have an excellent selection of bottles open in-store which are available for anyone to sample.”
Despite climatic challenges, the Rhône’s talented winemakers continue to produce excellent fine wines here. But where should one start? Here, Alexandra Gray de Walden finds out.
In terms of collecting wine, the Rhône has previously languished in the shadows of regions like Bordeaux and Burgundy. As the Rhône’s wines are (honestly) able to give “the two Bs” a run for their money, it’s high time we all made some room for Rhône in our cellars.
I put this to our Wine Director, Mark Pardoe MW, ahead of our Rhône 2022 En Primeur offer. Why should enthusiasts start collecting Rhône?
Because it is a region for every collector, regardless of palate or budget, says Mark. “The Northern Rhône and Southern Rhône are distinctively different propositions. They should really be seen as two different regions, due to their fascinating diversity.”
The Rhône has diverse flavours and styles from its many permitted grape varieties. The diversity of its terroir – from granite and schist in the north to clay, sand and galets (pebbles) in the south – gives the wines a true taste of time and place.
King in the north
The Northern Rhône appellations of Hermitage and Côte-Rôtie are perhaps the most well known. Hermitage reds are dominated by Syrah and are rich, deep and immensely age-worthy. The white wines are made with Marsanne, often blended with Roussanne, producing aromatic, nutty wines which age wonderfully.
Emmanuel Darnaud has vineyard parcels across Hermitage. Each one is picked and vinified separately, allowing their individual characteristics to shine. The 2022 is the first vintage of his red Hermitage with its delightful pomegranate and elderberry flavours.
Wines from Côte-Rôtie are lighter in style with more florality to the nose and palate. Again, the red wines are made from Syrah but up to 20% of the white Viognier grape can be added for freshness and floral characters.
Stéphane Ogier is considered a master of the Syrah grape, having honed his viticultural skills in Burgundy. His Côte-Rôtie Mon Village is his ode to this hallowed slope with blackcurrant, plum and vanilla notes.
“The volumes for Côte-Rôtie and, especially, Hermitage are tiny” Mark tells me. “The wines are distinctive and strongly allied to their terroir – the definition of collectible.”
Southern charm
The Southern Rhône – perhaps even the entire Rhône Valley – is best known for Châteauneuf-du-Pape. This historic appellation takes its name (“The Pope’s new castle”) from Pope Clement V, who relocated the papacy to nearby Avignon in 1309. This one part of the Southern Rhône produces more wine than the entire Northern Rhône.
Fourteen grape varieties are permitted in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, offering winemakers innumerable blending options. The GSM (Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre) blend is very popular with its mix of pepper, red fruit and black olive flavours.
Domaine des Saumades is a lesser-known gem in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, owned and run by Franck and Murielle Mousset. The Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc here is a refreshingly unctuous bundle of flavour complexity.
The other big hitting region of the Southern Rhône is Gigondas, which tells a similar tale according to Mark. “The best wines here are age-worthy, complex and definitely affordable”. They are fleshy and robust with that twist of Rhône pepper. They can be a maximum of 80 percent Grenache with at least 15 percent Syrah and/or Mourvèdre. The balance can then be comprised of any variety authorised for Côtes du Rhône (except Carignan).
La Bastide St Vincent dates from the 17th century and has 26 hectares of vines – all the famous Rhône trio of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre. Its Gigondas brims with dark cherry and spiced currant flavours and is a noteworthy introduction to the region’s wines.
“The Rhône is eminently collectible, but prices haven’t spiralled,” Mark concludes. This is a defining point for what makes its wines such a treasure for collectors. There is immense quality and superb winemaking talent in the region, all for affordable prices. “Although climate change is raising challenges [like the tornado in Châteauneuf-du-Pape in 2023], the wines have probably never been better and certainly never more consistent”.
Find out more about our Rhône 2022 En Primeur offer here.
