Fratelli Cigliuti Dinner Friday 21st November



Or perhaps that should be ‘Sorelle Cigliuti…’? For on Friday eve the 5th generation of Cigliutis, sisters Claudia (left) and winemaker Silvia, came to Berrys to present 7 of their Alba wines alongside a mercurial Piemontese menu, courtesy of Chief Chef Stewart Turner.

The tiny 6 hectare & something estate sits astrid Neive’s Serraboella hill at approx 350 metres elevation, one of Barbaresco’s core villages (the others being Treiso & Barbaresco itself), rich in calcareous clay & some sand.

The wines are consequently richly structured as well as finely perfumed; the 2001 Barbaresco Vigna Erte & 1998 Barbaresco Serraboella in particular showing exceptional poise, as well as a further 5- 10 yr potential.

The menu….

2006 Dolcetto d’Alba Serraboella: pungent violet cream perfume, juicy black cherry/choc texture

2004 Barbera d’Alba Campass: aged in 50% new french oak, a beautifully suave, plum skin & spice

> with Carpaccio of veal with crunchy cauliflower purée & shaved Alba white truffle 

2003 Barbaresco Vigna Erte: younger vines, steep slope, traditionally made (slavonian botte), very much in its youth, displaying rich strawberry primary fruit & a racy delicacy. Needs 10 yrs.

2001 Barbaresco Vigna Erte: still 5 yrs from its very best, a beautifully replete wine, scented with spicy forest fruit & raspberry flecks, velvety & cleansingly pure

> with Tagliolini with rabbit ragù & stuffed rabbit saddle 

2003 Barbaresco Serraboella: from (45 yo) older vines, partially made in a rotofermentor & 60% in french tonneau, a fuller, weightier wine than the Vigna Erte, certainly, more licorice, less perfume at this early stage…needs 15 yrs

2000 Barbaresco Serraboella: before the dinner this vintage was held up as ‘drinking’, yet in this company it’s clearly still in a state of flux, seemingly wishing to display both the flirtateous juiciness of the 2003 & the statemanlike stature of the 1998! Luscious now but would be better in 8 – 10 yrs.

1998 Barbaresco Serraboella: 1998 was less highly rated than most of the 1995 – 2001 vintages, yet clearly this wine was the exception that proves the rule: totally together, the nose a rich compote of forest fruits, savoury, licorice, crushed minerals; the palate seamlessly composed, a weave of many fruit & savoury flavours…the potential of Serraboella shining through yet still 5 – 8 yrs ahead of it

> with Poached hen’s egg on white onion & porcini tart, shaved Alba white truffle….a brilliant match for  Barbaresco Serraboella! With such fine terreno & capable, intuitive custodians, this is clearly an estate in the ascendancy. Time to stock up on their 2004 Barbareschi!

David Berry Green, Berrys’ Italian Buyer