Chablis. Photograph: Jason Lowe

Some 2005 whites may go forth and shine but generally anything up to and including 2006 should probably have been drunk by now, or at least be to hand and in current use. Very, very few white Burgundies in Customers’ Private Reserves from 2006 and earlier do not now have our final call maturity code “W” (withdraw for immediate consumption): it means exactly what it says. The 2007s and 2008s are showing some frailty – again, best use these now and over the coming 12 months rather than risk disappointment. They’ll likely, if not already, be graded “W” the next time round.

The 2009 vintage is providing some wonderful wines where picked early – as most of our producers did – but others may be succumbing to the ripeness of the vintage. The wines from 2010 are a little firmer but again the cry is drink soon and enjoy. The 2011s are showing excellent balance and are becoming a pleasure. Then move on to the softer, richer 2013s before the more chiselled 2012s and 2014s, though lesser appellations from these two vintages can be very good already. Chablis earns a mention – drink any 2013s soonish while holding the excellent 2014s which display true potential to ameliorate further.

Browse the new vintage from Burgundy en primeur on bbr.com.