There’s more to Champagne than just bubbles and bling, says Edwin Dublin. Ahead of our Artisan Champagne offer, our London Shops Manager explores the artisanal, crafty side of the world’s most famous sparkling wine.

There has been a revolution in Champagne in recent decades. One that has affected how the wines from this region are perceived by critics, consumers and, indeed, by Champagne producers themselves. Several reasons account for this, but one important factor driving change is the increasing number and prominence of “artisan” Champagnes. But what do we mean by this term? How do these artisans relate to growers and other Champagne producers, and what has been their impact on the world of Champagne? 

What is Artisan Champagne? 

Let’s first consider the term “Grower Champagne”. By law, these are Champagnes created by small producers, from their own grapes and in volumes as low as tens of thousands of bottles per year. In contrast, the bigger Champagne Houses might make a few million or more bottles.  

These producers, often small family businesses, are allowed to source up to five percent of their production with grapes from other producers – either by buying them or swapping grapes of their own. This is useful if you want to make a rosé but only grow Chardonnay, for example. If you buy in more than this, you are classed as a négociant – which includes small or medium-sized producers like Champagne Marguet as well as those up to the size of Moët & Chandon, for example.  

“Artisan Champagne” has come into recent usage to include both growers and those smaller négociants who buy in more than five percent but in every other respect work like growers. Indeed, some growers have done this as the only way to expand in a region where land costs up to one million euros per hectare. It is not a legally defined term. 

The rise of the artisans 

Artisans and growers have become more prominent since the latter part of the 20th century. In 2009, a group of growers banded together to form an association (or salon), called Terres et Vins, to showcase their wines as an alternative to the big brands. This really announced their arrival on the world stage.  

There are now around 30 different salons. They host a range of events annually over the course of a week known as the Printemps de Champagne. I have witnessed the energy at these events myself for over a decade. It was here that I first encountered and tasted the Champagnes of Tarlant, Penet-Chardonnet and many others. A frequent sight during the Printemps is of artisans disgorging bottles by hand in the streets, outside two popular bars in Reims. Evidence indeed of the informal camaraderie and generosity of these people. 

In Champagne, artisans were espousing sustainable ways of working in their vineyards and wineries long before it became fashionable (and, increasingly, necessary). The use of organics, biodynamics and minimal chemical interventions here is not new: Fleury was the first Champagne producer to gain official biodynamic certification over 30 years ago, for example. This pushing of the envelope of production is what excites me most about these artisans and their wines. 

How artisans work 

These producers’ respect for terroir through working sustainably follows, in many ways, how things were before industrialisation. There are plenty of other examples of artisans looking to the past to create the wines of today and tomorrow.  

There’s the use of “minor” varieties like Arbanne, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris and Petit Meslier; old vines; moving away from steel tanks for fermentation back to oak and other containers like amphorae and egg-shaped vessels; wild rather than cultured yeasts; shorter lees-ageing; and drier styles. 

Such techniques mean artisans create Champagnes that truly speak of terroir, taken to its apogee through single-vineyard expressions. Discovering less-familiar villages and producers through the smells and tastes of their Champagnes is a true delight – often with food, too, to which many are well suited. 

I’ve been going to Champagne for two decades now, and it is fascinating to observe the impact that these artisans have had. Their sustainable approach is now embraced by increasing numbers of producers in the region; it has significantly reduced the level of chemical interventions in vineyards, too. Informative back labels, common with these Champagnes, have surely inspired larger producers to now share similar information that was previously hidden. Often lower in price than the more well-known brands, these wines have both refreshed and brought a new audience to Champagne.  

But for me, the greatest impact has been to help foster the notion of Champagnes as more than just bubbles and bling. These wines can speak of the place and people who make them – terroir, if you will. These are great wines that just happen to have bubbles. Long may artisans continue to thrive.

Our Artisan Champagne offer is now live; explore the full range available here.

Scotland is haunted by ghost distilleries – places that once produced great whiskies, leaving only a limited number of casks behind. But within these casks lie some truly special liquids. This autumn, we’re shining a light on the story of Littlemill distillery, which closed its doors for the last time in 1994. Its remaining casks have been blended into two extraordinary collections, offering a unique taste of the past.  

Not so far from Glasgow, where the River Clyde opens its mouth a little wider to the estuary, once stood the buildings of Littlemill Distillery. Old photographs show a cluster of low, white-washed buildings with black slated roofs, the surface of the walls streaked with age; buildings suffused with an air of abandonment.  

These photos are all we have of them now. Production stopped in 1994, the distillery was dismantled in 1997, and a fire destroyed the buildings in 2004. Today, a housing development stands on the site. But I wonder, as you are drifting off to sleep, if you can still hear the roll of the barrels, the clatter of tools against the copper pot stills, the thrum of industry. If you can still smell the deep, fruity stench of the brewing barley; if you can taste it in the air.  

This is one of Scotland’s “ghost distilleries”. Its story dates back to 1772, making it Scotland’s oldest licensed site. The history here is a familiar one in Scotland, marked by closures and reopenings, changing hands throughout the centuries. But all activity would eventually grind to a halt in the 1990s, its fate later secured by the fire.  

Whisky heritage is soaked into the bones of the area – that stretch from Glasgow to Campbeltown, along the banks of the Clyde. During the 1800s, Glasgow was considered the “second city of the British Empire”, a hub of industry and trade. Blooming around it, the West of Scotland was the heart of Scotch whisky distilling. But as one century gave way to another, and the sun began setting on a crumbling empire, that industry moved north, into the Highlands and up to Speyside. In its wake, it left a landscape haunted by ghost distilleries, a trail of shelled-out buildings hinting at an industrious past.  

All that remains of Littlemill’s great legacy are archival records and casks. The last of these casks, acquired in 1994, now sit in the warehouses of Loch Lomond Distillery. They are precious things, the whisky still alive and breathing in the wood. And now, they’re safely in the hands of Master Blender Michael Henry, who has been making whisky with Loch Lomond Distillery for the last 17 years.  

It must feel like an immense responsibility to work with the last remaining casks of a distillery that will never return. “There’s a real mix of emotions,” says Michael, over a video call. “There’s the romance of working with a ghost distillery – a sense that you’re part of that history – so there’s a kind of sadness that that history has come to an end. But it’s also a celebration. We’re getting people to know about Littlemill, telling its story, sharing its liquid.”  

Working with these remaining Littlemill casks, Michael has crafted two new collections: the Cask Reflections Series and the Vanguards Collection. These casks are handled with immense delicacy and skill. Such a job requires an intimate knowledge of each cask, how the liquid is showing at any given time, knowing where the balance lies between the spirit character and the wood influence. How each piece fits within the wider puzzle, like a fragment of melody in a broader symphony.  

After all, these liquids are time portals, some of them made from whisky that was distilled half a century ago. Extraordinarily rare, they capture a moment that will never return. Knowing this, it must feel strange to drink such a thing. But Michael is unequivocal.  

“The thing about any whisky, no matter its history, is the fact that it’s made for drinking. It’s made to be tasted and enjoyed. That’s the most respectful thing we can do – the way we can pay homage to the distillers.” 

Three tasting notes 

Cask Reflections Release No.1 is made from a careful selection of 33-year-old casks, finished for four months in Japanese Mizunara oak. Mizunara is a floral, fruity and perfumed wood that is often used for furniture-making, with a porous quality that imparts flavour quite quickly, and requires a great deal of care to manage successfully.  

But the resulting whisky is something special. It shows a fragrant sandalwood character, with a delicate weave of caramel, white flowers, green apple and freshly cut grass. Sweet, varnished wood comes through on the palate, with a touch of cloves, warm vanilla and a lift of citrus.  

The Vanguards Collection – Chapter 1: Robert Muir is made from liquid that was distilled on 11th October 1977, telling a story of four decades spent quietly maturing in American oak. It has since been re-casked and finished in Oloroso Sherry hogsheads, followed by refill Bourbon.  

Wonderfully rich, it displays notes of salted toffee, chocolate, orange blossom and hazelnut, with a malty cereal character woven through, alongside juicy hints of nectarine and apricot. A chewy raisin-like note speaks to its time in Oloroso wood.  

The Vanguards Collection – Chapter 2: Jane Macgregor is named after Scotland’s first female licensee; her tenure was recorded at Littlemill in 1823.  

This beautiful expression is made from 47-year-old liquid, showing a clean, surprisingly delicate palate with a light, fresh body. On the palate, it offers delicate fruits such as apple, white pear and a hint of white grape, with an almost grappa-like quality.  

Last month, several colleagues from Berry Bros. & Rudd embarked on a whirlwind tour of Champagne. During the course of a productive, if unseasonably chilly, week together, they discovered new partners, unlocked potential for our Asian markets, and reinforced existing relationships. Here, Champagne Buyer Davy Zyw explains more.

It was a pleasure to once again have my feet back on the deep chalk soils of Champagne’s Marne region. I’m always inspired by the calibre of producers we work with here: as many of you know, this is a place rich with beauty, history, and varied terroir.

Yet despite its wealth of quality and diversity, it is a region often appreciated through far too narrow a lens. Even in 2024, there is more to be found, both in the commercial and the natural landscape of Champagne. The views of the region are beautiful, if not as dramatic as some wine regions. But there is plenty of magic, both above ground and below.

It’s a region of exuberant characters, of some of the wine world’s most treasured stories. Its vineyards’ roots, deep in the chalky bedrock, are capable of some of the world’s greatest wines.

Sampling new artisan Champagne

We tasted some outstanding wines during our visits. The current base vintages are on a roll of podium-worthy quality: solar 2018s, intense 2019s and focused 2020s. One of Champagne’s many traits is its capacity to age, and some producers are still releasing back-vintages: we tasted confident 2014s, small-yielding 2015s and 2016s, and even some opulent 2012s and cool 2013s – my personal favourite. These will season our Artisan Champagne offer this year.

Over my last few visits, I have noticed a shift away from wines built on multi-vintage bases, from complexities gained from secondary fermentation, or extended lees ageing. Instead, the best Champagnes of the week were wines made to focus and expose vineyards: details of the varieties grown there, and the hallmarks of the vintage in each.

There were some takeaways from work in the cellars too. A few years ago, only the most experimental or avant-garde producers were keeping still wines in more neutral vessels: glass, ceramic, old barrels or concrete. Often, these were the wines kept on lees for more than 12 months, prior to their secondary fermentation.

Now, these tactics are increasingly common. The wines are more confident and fuller from it. Was this always possible, 10 or 20 years ago? No – it was too cold, the wines generally too thin and acidic.

Today, I believe we’re entering a golden age, where the warmer climate benefits quality. But this won’t last forever.

Champagne’s changing climate

All the best producers we visited are linked by organic or sustainable viticultural practices. They approach climate change with open minds, with willingness to adapt, to protect and build resilience. They still want to produce the best wine they can.

There is a generational focus on sustainable viticulture – 68% of the area under vine is now sustainably farmed, and 44% holds VDC certification. This is targeted to become 100% by 2030.

Individual vineyard quality is encouraged. Often, those certified are the younger generation, who are choosing to farm and produce their own Champagnes from their own vines, rather than selling grapes to co-operatives, or to Grands Marques as generations before them did.

Within this generational shift, there are  a huge number of new producers who share an invigorated enthusiasm, helping shape their own narratives and creating wines of unique expression.

It is such an exciting time for the Champagne region, and I’m looking forward to sharing these wines with you soon. We came away from the trip with new producers in our portfolio, as well as new opportunities for our Hong Kong, Singapore, Japan and United Kingdom businesses. Stay tuned for our upcoming offer.

Our Artisan Champagne offer is now live. To browse the full range, please click here.

On Thursday 19th September, 100 Berry Bros. & Rudd colleagues set off on a 100km walk, to raise £100,000 for My Name’5 Doddie Foundation – a charity very close to our hearts. Our Buyer, Davy Żyw – the inspiration behind the walk – details what happened over those three days.

I write this sat in a grey, wet morning in Edinburgh. Autumn has arrived in full force, draining light from the day, sharpening the wind and making my nose run, all of which makes the thought of September’s walk even more miraculous and dreamlike.

Arriving into that morning at Beachy Head was surreal: high on the cliffs, surrounded by swirling cloud. The glimpses of rolling sea beneath were swathed by the gold light of dawn, which seemed to emulate the electric current running through us all.

The spirit of energy, excitement and positivity was palpable. In front of us, pure adventure, 100km of chalky paths, life-long memories yet to be made and 1000s of blisters yet to born.

At the point of departure, we had just hit our £100,000 fundraising target. This was a huge achievement in itself and testament to the incredible fundraising of our Charity Committee – as well as the amazing personal donations gathered by every member. But, as I announced to the group in our first huddle of the trip, people living with MND don’t give up at 100%. They need to go the extra mile.

And that’s exactly what we did.

Day One

This was the most dramatic section of the walk, as our path hugged the white cliff lines. The keen beans, led by our fit-as-a-fiddle Private Client Manager Fergus Stewart, pulled off at the front. The huddle of near 100 walkers soon dispersed and broke into intimate groups, often pairs, allowing for deep conversations. Conversations started about wine, work or the walk but often led elsewhere. These rich talks, which melted the kilometres away, were just not possible on last year’s bike ride – and for me, were the fuel I needed to keep me going for the next three days.

Seven Sisters National Park provided us with some shade before we headed inland and up, up onto the South Downs themselves. It was a welcome sight arriving at the gates of Rathfinny, the prospect of lunch and a glass of bubbles around the corner. To our dismay, it was still a good 40 minutes of walking up Cradle Valley to get to our buffet.

The afternoon heat was intense, an incarnation of Day One of our cycle last year. But we plodded and prevailed, up, over and then down onto the banks of the River Ouse – which looked very tempting for a dip as it meandered into Lewes. These last few flat miles were probably the hardest for me out of the whole trip. So hard in fact, that we just had to stop for some needed hydration at Harvery’s Brewery. And with 35km in the legs under a baking sun, that frothy cool pint had never tasted so fine.

After a small detour, we all congregated at camp to admire our support crew’s military tent erection skills. After a very welcome glass of Bibi Graetz, a burger and a massage to relieve the tension in my back and neck it was time for bed. Most of us crawled into our tents at a sensible time, some finished their three-day supply of whisky on the first night.

Day Two

Dawn broke, and the snore-shaming started. Once breakfasted we loaded up, meeting with a few new faces before walking straight up the calf-burning South Downs, looking down over Plumpton College, dodging tractors and livestock. Once into the rhythm of the day, we were all still charged with positivity, but the honeymoon was over. The blisters and injuries were real. I think we all took stock of the enormity of his challenge.

Lunch at Devils Dyke brought Guinness, and to the disgust of our Italian friend Daniele, who had joined us from Giovanni Rosso, mountains of fried beige food – just like home. The afternoon was tough, but each step brought us closer to camp and we rallied together, powered by stimulating conversation, the sharing in vulnerabilities and finding strength in one another.

We arrived at Chanctonbury Ring – an ancient site that was once a prehistoric hill fort, and you could just feel it was a place of significance. As we drank in the views, we received the warmest welcome from Wiston Estate’s owner Kirsty Goring, winemaker Marcus and GM Tori, who kept our glasses charged with delicious, cold sparkling wine from magnums. This was a special moment, basking in the later afternoon sunlight, high on life after a difficult day walking, toasting and cheering each finisher with huge applause. None received louder fanfare than our own Lizzy Rudd who, with iron grit, finished the day despite twisting her ankle only two days beforehand.

We bounced down the hill into the most idyllic campsite: neat rows of tents framed by Chardonnay vines. Piping hot showers, wood fired pizza and lot of laughs ensued – then it was time to fall into our tents.

Day Three

If it wasn’t the snoring that kept us awake, it was the storm which ripped through our camp in the early morning. Lighting illuminated the blue of our tents as thunder and rain rolled and ripped us away from sleep. What seemed like only moments later, it was 5:40am and time to get up. With almost 70km in our legs, there were many creaking bodies, sore joints and injured feet. The line for the medic tent was longer than breakfast queue, and game faces were on for many who had injuries and fatigue. Today there were a lot of personal battles to overcome.

We were joined by new faces, light feet, high hopes and our very own walking wine bottle: our Commercial Lead, Simon Robins. The injection of fresh energy gave everyone a boost and all of a sudden I wasn’t wishing the kilometres away, instead savouring every second of enjoyment of the conversations I was having, every step along  the leaf lined forest paths we were marching. I made every effort to be present in the moment, knowing this incredible experience was already in its twilight. The Bat & Hall gave us all refreshment, and a chance to regroup. We had Hambledon in our sights, and we arrived to a heroes’ welcome, arm in arm.

The finish line

Hugs, tears, smiles and jubilation were surrounded by the smell of the grill and the sound of popping corks. 100 colleagues had left in the rose gold light of dawn at Beachy Head, three days and 100km prior and arrived into the sunlit scene of Hambledon as firm friends. I hope the lasting legacy of this walk is the relationships we made, bound together by the shared suffering of this epic journey and the physical achievement we accomplished.

Our walk has raised £170,000, and counting. Together with the 325 cycle challenge, we have raised over £600,000 which goes directly into MND research.

It is such a precious thing to be given leave to live, and the fact that Berry Bros. & Rudd encourages these life experiences is something to be cherished. Their involvement and investment in our walk meant every penny we raised goes directly to help those with MND.

This disease is not incurable, it is just underfunded and with every penny we raised brings us closer to a world free of this devastating condition. The research is moving forward. Every month and year there are breakthroughs, but there are a lot of headwinds, and progress takes time to cascade through to patients.

Will a cure be found in our lifetimes? From the neurologists I know, they are confident we will. Fast enough for me? Unsure. But I’ve got no other options as to hope and do everything I can. And I feel so lucky as to have such a strong supportive team around me, mad enough to embark on these crazy fundraisers. I’ve never felt so alive.

There was a lot of discussion about what our next challenge could be.. and right now I’m not sure what mode of transport or country it will be in. But what I do know is that, whatever this amazing business and inspiring group put their minds to, it shall happen. With £600,000 raised so far… Project One Million is on the horizon and I can’t wait to share the experience with you all.

If you’d still like to support our fundraising efforts for My Name’5 Doddie, you can do so here.