The Betwixtmas dinners: Christmas leftovers and what to drink with them

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Christmas feasting doesn’t have to end once the day itself is over. Here, Elisa De Luca describes the joys of using up Christmas leftovers and explains what she’ll be drinking with them.

Leftovers are one of the best parts of Christmas, so much so that my family purposefully scales up our festive shopping list each year – often to such an extent that you’d think there were fifteen of us, rather than five.

Turkeys so heavy you totter under the weight of them; mountains upon mountains of potatoes; a good two hours dedicated, every Christmas Eve, to wrapping hundreds of pigs in blankets.

Half of this doesn’t get eaten on the day. By the time we’ve worked through breakfast platters of eggs and bacon, then an assortment of “picky bits” accumulated from the shelves of M&S, we’re not all that hungry when it comes to Christmas dinner itself.

And yet, we continue to cook – because, as we settle ourselves into the Betwixtmas slump, often to be spent entirely on the sofa, we know that we’ve set up a series of fantastic leftovers feasts to look forward to.

A tradition: the Christmas pie

It’s something of a ritual. The morning after Boxing Day, we clear the detritus of wrapping paper, stack up empty Quality Street tubs for recycling, and get to work on pastry for a Christmas leftovers pie.

Turkey, of course, is the star of said pie – accompanied by whatever might be left of the pigs in blankets. In the all-too-common case that we’ve managed to work our way through these already, no matter. Gammon will make up the shortfall, and bacon too.

The filling: the meats, parsnips, stuffing – but not a sprout, never a sprout – all in a simple, creamy roux. Then, a whole bulb of garlic, roasted for an hour; fresh tarragon, finely chopped; an unholy amount of Dijon and wholegrain mustard. One quick egg wash for the lid and 40 minutes later, we’re back to the sofa, cradling plates of hot, fresh pie.

It’s not light. Not at all. A heavier wine alongside this will kick you firmly back into post-Christmas lethargy. Instead, we tend to have a specific bottle set to one side for this annual treat: a bone-dry, mouth-tinglingly acidic Riesling.

The Riesling Trocken from Eva Fricke is a new favourite of mine this year, and – with its incredibly fresh flavours of green fruit – is a strong contender for a pie pairing. Alternatively, the Riesling Réserve from Trimbach is always a hit, with enough zip to cut through the cream and salt, while packing the power to hold up against a combination of garlic, mustard and tarragon.

A croque-ing Christmas

It’s an excellent problem to have: what to do when you’re left with an excess of cheese and cold cuts, and haven’t quite mustered the energy to start cooking again?

I’ve only recently discovered the joys of a homemade Croque Monsieur. A few extra steps to a classic ham-and-cheese, and all of a sudden you have a sandwich of the gods. Well-buttered bread, layers of whatever cheese you have left – ideally something that will melt well, for full gooey pleasure – topped with slices of cold cuts and another slice of bread. Pan fry both sides in a healthy (or not) amount of butter, re-load with more cheese, béchamel sauce and grated nutmeg, and bake until melted to perfection. I challenge you to stop at one. Your leftovers will be gone in no time.

For this – and, let’s be honest, for anything that’s seen a well-oiled frying pan – a sparkling wine is what you want. The high acidity in these cuts through fat on your palate – as does the texture of the bubbles, which will stop your tastebuds feeling overwhelmed by the butter and cheese.

This year, I’m opting for Pol Roger’s Réserve Brut – the weight and complexity in this will mean you can load up on all the cheese combinations you want, and still have a wine that’s powerful enough to match. If you’re planning on a Croque-Monsieur feast and are looking to stock up, the Own Selection Crémant de Limoux is a fantastic alternative that won’t break the bank: all tangy orchard fruit, with a wonderfully cleansing finish.

A farewell to Christmas flavours

Believe it or not, it can happen. After months of anticipation, an excess of Christmas food can put you right off the time-honoured flavours of sage, onion and spice. But what to do if you’re still working your way through an excess of turkey and roasted vegetables? In my house, the answer is simple – it’s time for a curry night.

A turkey curry can come in many forms. A biryani is a staple for me – the key to the flavour lying in four or five onions, thinly sliced and slowly caramelised to bring maximum flavour. Parboiled rice; diced turkey mixed with garlic, yoghurt and spices; milk and butter and a touch of saffron – all slow-cooked in one pot until ready. If there are still leftover vegetables lying around, put these to use too – generally in a fragrant tomato-based curry to be served alongside.

Wines for spicy food can be a little more of a challenge; the heat of chilli can highlight certain elements of wine that do far better when they’re nicely integrated and less noticeable. Some wines, though, stand out. I always enjoy a Gewurztraminer like this one from Domaine Rolly-Gassman. Gewurztraminer’s a singularly unusual wine: powerful and aromatic, with a blend of rose, lychee, white pepper and ginger flavours that work with spices in food, rather than against them.

Of course, by this point you might also be looking forward to the days of Dry January – and starting that a little early may be welcome. Experimenting with something new could be just the ticket; our Sparkling Tea offers up all the dried flowers, soft fruit and spice that will intertwine with the spices of curry, with none of the alcohol.

Looking for inspiration for what to eat on the day itself? Find our guide to Christmas food and wine here.

Category: Miscellaneous

A celebration of cheese and Champagne  

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Marta Rich works in our Digital Trading team. Every Christmas, she travels home to Washington D.C. to celebrate with her family. There is one tradition she looks forward to, most of all: the sharing of a magnificent cheeseboard, alongside delicious Champagnes.  

In my household, the Christmas season is centred around traditional dishes from my parents’ European and American heritages. But there is one meal, in particular, that we are all equally devoted to: an impeccably constructed cheeseboard.  

Christmas Day is always an early start, with steaming cups of hot chocolate for me and black coffee for my parents, sitting cross-legged and huddled around the tree exchanging presents and watching our two cats frolic in the wrapping paper. We all have our ceremonial plate of a traditional Panettone – meticulously chosen by my mother weeks before – but before long, we are waiting for the real feast to begin.  

Since moving to the UK when I was 18 for university, one of the token “British things” I have been bringing back to the suburbs of Washington D.C. is a delicious and sweetly packaged potted Stilton. This, along with a colourfully waxed Cheddar truckle and a variety of chutneys – recently the favourite has been a caramelised onion marmalade – are ceremonial presents for my father, who upon opening, officially begins the creation of our cheeseboard. 

Our Christmas Day cheeseboard is a collaborative family effort, and the result of countless grocery store visits, trial cheese-and-cracker pairings throughout the year, and vigorous samplings of other charcuterie staples. This spread is no laughing matter; the 2023 Christmas Day cheeseboard stretched across our entire kitchen island, and we even needed to write down the names of each one to remember the extent of our offering. Picture carefully mapped-out groupings of soft Brillat-Savarin, sharp Neal’s Yard Cheddars and a Humboldt Fog from California. These are surrounded by wafer-thin water crackers, rosemary and truffle assorted nuts, slivered Marcona almonds, pecans roasted in butter and tossed in our local Old Bay seasoning. A line-up of English jams. Among all these delicious treats, our potted Stilton sits proudly in the centre.  

Now what else is there to drink at 10 o’clock in the morning, surrounded by the very finest cheeses, than Champagne? Like the charcuterie, our selection of sparkling varies from year to year; as a family, we’re passionate about exploring everything this magnificent region has to offer. Champagne is one of my preferred wines to drink at any point in the year, but I always look forward to taking that first deep inhale of the glass on Christmas morning, breathing in all those delicious toasty biscuity notes.  

Here are some of the highlights we’ve had over the years. The Champagne Pol Roger, Réserve, Brut is everything I want from a Champagne. Brilliant sparkling bubbles, toasted brioche, and crisp orchard fruit: sipping this in one hand with a Stilton-and-chutney laden cracker in the other is exactly what Champagne dreams are made of.  

One of my mother’s longtime favourites is the ever-elegant Champagne Billecart-Salmon, Réserve, Brut. Full-bodied with ripe and cooked fruits, our mouths begin to water at the pop of the Billecart’s cork. It has delicious pastry notes, and a distinct silky creaminess, making this a Champagne of wonderful richness and balance. Each sip is absolutely magical.  

Then, there’s the glamorous 2015 Champagne Louis Roederer, Rosé, Brut. While our Stilton has undoubtedly been the star of the show each year, this Champagne is definitely the main contender for “Christmas Day diva”. This is my favourite kind of rosé: bursting with red berries, peach, and citrus fruits, but bone dry. This is the perfect wine to cut through our magnificent cheeseboard.  

While not technically a meal, I always look forward to this Christmas morning tradition. All the preparations – like braving Fortnum & Mason at rush hour during peak season to purchase the Stilton – officially mark the Christmas season for me each year, counting down the days until I am with my family celebrating. Toasting with our Champagne on Christmas morning is a celebration of the year that has passed, but also something of an auspicious act, ushering in some good luck for the new year.  

Category: Miscellaneous

Reflections on London and Burgundy

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Photo credit: Jacqueline Walker

Serena Yeung is one of our Account Managers in Hong Kong. We were delighted to welcome her to London this autumn, and she joined our UK-based Account Managers on an En Primeur trip to Burgundy. Here she shares some of her reflections on her time spent in our St James’s office and in producers’ vineyards.  

Having been with Berry Bros. & Rudd for over eight years, I finally had the chance to visit our UK office for the first time. This was an experience I had eagerly anticipated, and it certainly lived up to my expectations. 

Stepping into the original shop on St. James’s Street felt like walking into a museum. The vintage coffee scales and coffee grinder are beautifully maintained, and the charming antique door handles add a special touch. Meanwhile, our office on Pall Mall strikes a balance between tradition and modernity – stylishly simple, clean, and neat. 

During my visit, I explored our cellars, both steeped in an incredible 326 years of history. Discovering those old, dust-covered bottles, each with its own story, made me reflect on the richness of our heritage. I also had the pleasure of seeing the private event spaces for lunches, dinners and tastings. These rooms exude traditional charm, with over 300 years of history embedded in the wooden ceilings. I was pleasantly surprised by how well preserved everything was, which added to the elegant atmosphere. I truly hope to join some events there in the future; I can only imagine what a unique experience it must be.  

My colleagues in the UK were incredibly welcoming, making me feel right at home. It was delightful to see that they often have wine or spirits opened for tasting, accompanied by training sessions from producers. One highlight was joining a regular meeting and finally meeting many colleagues face-to-face – people I’d only ever communicated with via email. It was a touching experience to connect in person. 

I thoroughly enjoyed my week in the UK. I took the opportunity to run in St. James’s Park, Green Park and Hyde Park, all while enjoying lovely weather. Jogging alongside ducks swimming in the lake and watching children feed squirrels as yellow leaves gently fell around me felt like running through a beautiful painting. 

As I write this, I already miss that week and all the wonderful experiences it brought. I look forward to carrying these memories with me and hope to create more connections between our offices in the future. 

After my visit to the UK office, I was truly honoured to represent the Asia team in Burgundy and partake in the Burgundy 2023 En Primeur tasting. This was my second trip to Burgundy – my last visit in June was filled with lush greenery and sunny skies. However, visiting in November provided a completely different experience, allowing me to witness the vineyards in their stunning winter splendour. 

The weather during our visit was a bit foggy, making navigation challenging and the roads somewhat slippery. I’m especially grateful to my colleagues who drove us to the wineries, ensuring we arrived safely and could fully immerse ourselves in each tasting without worry. 

Throughout my time in Burgundy, I explored over 25 wineries and tasted more than 150 wines. Each producer showcased their unique character, and it was fascinating to interact with winemakers whose wines I’ve enjoyed but never met in person. Hearing their insights and understanding their winemaking processes added immense depth to the wines, making each one come alive with its own story and personality. 

The 2023 Burgundy vintage is truly remarkable – pure, fruity, fresh, and incredibly approachable. Even though these were En Primeur wines, unbottled and still maturing, I found them to be expressive and vibrant. Each sip offered a delightful glimpse into what the final product will deliver, and I couldn’t help but feel excited about their potential. The balance and clarity of the fruit, combined with the finesse of the tannins, suggest that this vintage will be a standout in years to come. 

Visiting the vineyards was another highlight of the trip. Standing in Montrachet, I finally grasped the exact distances between the vines and observed the planting stages up close. This firsthand experience not only solidified my memories but also deepened my appreciation for the meticulous care that goes into cultivating each vineyard. The beauty of the landscape, with its rolling hills, was simply breathtaking. 

This trip to Burgundy was more than just a tasting; it was an unforgettable journey into the heart of an iconic wine country. The connections I made, the wines I tasted, and the sights I experienced will stay with me for years to come. I returned home not only with a greater understanding of Burgundy’s exceptional wines but also with cherished memories that will enrich my ongoing journey in the world of wine. I look forward to sharing these experiences and insights with my colleagues and customers back in Asia, fostering a deeper appreciation for the remarkable wines that Burgundy has to offer. 

Category: Miscellaneous

The joy of a beautifully mature Claret

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Victoria Bull from our Buying team has the pleasure of sourcing bottles from private collections – many of them astonishingly old. Uncorking them is a special moment, a delicate operation accompanied by bated breath and crossed fingers. But in the case of this 1945 vintage from Château Rauzan-Ségla, it was well worth the effort.  

How many people does it take to open a bottle of wine? Well, when the bottle in question is a Berry Bros. & Rudd bottling of a 1945 Château Rauzan-Ségla, from Margaux, there needed to be no fewer than four of us to oversee the operation. One colleague to dutifully provide his Durand – a sleek and efficient bottle-opening device that combines the prongs of the butler’s thief, and the helix of a traditional corkscrew – another colleague to employ said device, and two more of us to look on with bated breath and sweaty palms. The Durand worked its magic, and all at one with the Rauzan-Ségla, we breathed a sigh of relief. With the bottle unlocked, we could assess the liquid within.  

It is a rare occasion when one needs to summon the Durand. It suggests that an especially mature bottle of wine is about to be opened; and a ritual, undertaken with reverence, ensues. Similar to unwrapping a present or placing a small bet on an outside horse; actions of unknown promise, where there is opportunity for disappointment, or great reward.    

The 1945 Rauzan-Ségla was a particularly significant bottle. Now approaching its octogenarian decade, the wine was made in the “victory vintage” – and made, poignantly, mostly by women. This is a vintage that would no doubt garner respect and appreciation, even if the wines hadn’t been so impressive. However, the year was blessed with perfect growing conditions, and it stands with ’21, ’59, ’61 and ’82 as one of the greatest Bordeaux vintages of the 20th century. A severe frost naturally reduced yields, resulting in grapes of great concentration, while the consistent warmth of August and September meant a steady ripening and slow accumulation of sugars. Small berries with ripe tannins promised wines of exceptional longevity.  

The wine was, indeed, a triumph. We were delighted, and the appreciation to be able to try this bottle was felt strongly by all. Extraordinarily, the palate still danced with fresh fruit; more blackberry and currant than red fruits, while the structure was firm. The wine was brooding and concentrated; it immersed our palates with black fruit, while drawing our minds back to the past.  

We poured it alongside ’61s and ’67s, and the difference was remarkable. The ’61s were still holding up well, as showcased by Berry Bros. & Rudd bottlings of Grand Cru Classé châteaux. We also tried some ’67s, a cold year, which resulted in inevitable widespread chaptalisation. The wines were a little thin, but not unpleasant, with some expected cigar box and cedarwood aroma.  

These wines may have passed their expected drinking window, but we were not there for the scores. It was a total pleasure to discover how each wine clearly encapsulated its vintage. In Bordeaux, where the weather is more marginal and less predictable, vintage variation has always been pronounced. Nowadays, with the effects of climate change and continuous improvements in technology and equipment, vintages are more qualitatively consistent. Therefore, when opening a mature bottle, you are placing yourself right back into the summer of ’69 – or in this case ’67, ’61 or ’45 – and sampling a true flavour of history.  

Of course, wines do not need to be half a century old for us to appreciate their age. The 2005 vintage was an exceptional one, producing a bumper crop of ripe berries. Nearly 20 years on, it’s drinking beautifully now. While wines from ’11 and ’13 – vintages oft overlooked, being overshadowed by the quality of ’10 and the drinkability of ’14 – are excellent options, hitting the lovely spot between maturity and affordability. These bottles have all been waiting for the perfect moment to be opened – and that perfect moment is when you decide it to be, whether you need a Durand, or not. 

Explore the wines of Rauzan-Ségla here 

Category: Miscellaneous