Category: Old World

A meeting with Olivier Merlin

Recently I had my first chance to taste Olivier Merlin’s 2008s, including his terrific range of Pouilly Fuisses. He makes three of them in all, one from Fuisse itself, one from the Clos des Quarts, and my regular favourite which comes from the village of Vergisson. Here is Olivier talking about it as he draws […]

Jancis Robinson MW and Simon Staples review Bordeaux 2008

Bordeaux 2008 is, quite frankly, a vintage that has taken most of us by surprise.  Who would have thought that after months of continuous bad weather and set-backs in the vineyards, and weeks of speculation about the quality of the wines, that we would actually come away with anything better than mediocre praise for these […]

Nel vigneti (among the vines)

Week three of wine adventures in Piedmont Bright sun and a warming breeze was all the encouragement a fair-weather lackey  needed to swap the pen for the secateurs. Alas it wasn’t to be. All togged up in my choicest gear, complete with hiking boots, the boss/il capo effectively left me on the bench as I watched […]

The final day

Always variable in years like these, Margaux is probably the most difficult of the left bank appellations to taste.   Margaux itself delicate and fresh, Palmer all correct and easier to gauge at this stage than in most years.  Brane-Cantenac soft and supple.  Giscours both structured and supple and du Tertre, our base for the […]