Category: Old World

Ma Sherry Amour

Oh, the many wonders of Sherry. In my mind it is undeniably the world’s most underrated, underpriced and truly splendid wine. Now, I’m not really talking about the sweet tasteless stuff that Auntie Mavis used to drink with the Queen’s speech on Christmas Day, I’m enthusing about the serious, nutty, complex, mouth-watering delights of the […]

Nailed! The 2010 Piedmont harvest summary & news from elsewhere in Italia

  As I write, the last of the Nebbiolo is being harvested, notably by Mario Fontana (Cascina Fontana) and Davide Rosso (Giovanni Rosso). This year I struggled up the hill to talk to Ferdinando Principiano in his vertical Barolo Ravera vineyard, Luca Roagna in the gem of a Barbaresco site: Montefico, ‘newboy’ Pier Bovone at Cornarea […]

Dizzy Heights

The idea was as immediately appealing as it was self-evidently indulgent, namely to conduct an ‘experiment’ to assess the on-going impact of altitude on the taste and flavour of Champagne. And we are not talking 35, 000 feet here, and the effects of cabin pressure and recycled air of a dubious nature. On the contrary, […]

From Vosges to Muenchberg, Alsace

Initial impressions of wine regions can often disappoint: arrival at a non-descript airport followed by a drive across a bleak light industrial landscape until hills loom into view on the horizon and vines are finally spotted. My first visit to Alsace was no exception, the drive from Basel airport across the border towards Colmar memorable […]