Home to a selection of grape varieties producing widely diverse wine styles, the Loire is a dream region for food matching. Here, we explore some of its pairings for shellfish.  

As one of the most diverse wine regions in France, possibly even Europe, the Loire has all manner of wine styles to please any palate. Names like Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé are among its best-known appellations – these crisp, tart Sauvignon Blancs have been regulars on wine lists for years. But there is so much more to explore.

The wide range of colours and styles make Loire wines a superb choice for food pairing, whatever the flavours or textures of the food in question.

Forming the backbone of the Loire is the Loire River – the longest in France. While we might be talking freshwater here rather than saltwater, the Loire does reach over to the west coast of France. Here, the Pays de la Loire meets the Bay of Biscay where both oysters and moules can be found.

Speaking of oysters, let’s start with these exalted bivalves and a Loire wine to complement them. After all, life can’t always be Champagne and oysters.

Muscadet, in my opinion, is a somewhat maligned and misunderstood appellation. It is sometimes disregarded for being too subtle or unassuming, but I think this does it a disservice. It is delicate and elegant. If we follow the adage of wine pairing that “what grows together, goes together” then a delicate Muscadet from the coastal Loire is a shellfish lover’s dream.

Made from the Melon de Bourgogne grape, Muscadet is light and fresh – it must be 12.5% ABV or less, according to the laws of the appellation. It plays more of a supporting role with food partners, highlighting certain elements in your dish. Its crispness and high acidity are heavenly with oysters, especially those which have been sourced off the coast of Vendée, also in the Loire – the very embodiment of “growing and going together”.

Jumping the length of the Loire river and moving to the far east of the region, we land in Pouilly-Fumé. These crisp and mineral wines are made from Sauvignon Blanc. While they do have expected Sauvignon Blanc characteristics of citrus and green fruit, there is much more complexity and richness here than you’d find in your average bottle of Sauvignon.

The name itself (Fumé) confirms the slightly smoky, gunflint element you will find in Pouilly-Fumé which make it a beautiful match with prawns. But you need not worry here about fancy sauces. Unadulterated, freshly shelled prawns with oven-warm crusty bread and a cool glass of Pouilly-Fumé are a trio of tempered, briny tang.   

Another technique for food and wine pairing (but certainly not a foolproof one) is that of matching a food’s colour with a wine of a similar shade. Lighter coloured food like chicken, therefore, pairs with white wines. By this notion then, our shelly adventure with the wines of the Loire should stop with the whites. Red wine lovers will be delighted to hear this is not so.

The Sancerre appellation may be best known for its white wines, but it is red Sancerre that I want to talk about here – but by all means, please do pair a bowl of moules marinières with a white Sancerre.

Made with 100% Pinot Noir, red Sancerre is a light wine with red fruit flavours and often, some leafy and more savoury notes (particularly as it ages). It makes a very pretty match with fruits de mer but again, hold the sauce here and let the wine and the shellfish work their magic alone. It even sits well alongside some of the richer, meatier shellfish like brown crab or even lobster as the acidity cuts through the brine.

Ultimately, whenever you plan to enjoy a bottle of wine with some delicious fare – be it seafood, salad or lamb shank – there is always one question you should ask yourself first. Is it good to drink? That is the delicious oyster and the rest is just shell. 

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