Dear Bordeaux
Author: Guy Davies
People are often surprised when I tell them that Bordeaux is one of the best-value wine regions on earth. This flies in the face of a lot of what we read in the media, and also contrasts with what I regularly hear from customers, so I often find myself arguing the case.
First, it’s important to grasp the enormous scale of the Bordeaux wine industry, with more than 7,000 different châteaux producing about 900 million bottles a year between them. That’s a pretty similar output to that of the whole of Australia – enough to make Bordeaux, if it were an independent country, one of the world’s major wine-producing nations all by itself. Indeed, there are really a huge number of different Bordeaux, ranging everywhere from the top to the bottom of the market, rather than one homogenous product. We often see and hear a lot about the pricing of Bordeaux in general, but what the critics are really referring to is a handful of producers, and a mere drop in the ocean of wine that comes from the region as a whole.
Part of what inspired me to write this was finding myself recently in a group of fellow young(ish) wine enthusiasts, and hearing that many of them thought of Bordeaux not only as overpriced, but as stuffy and old-fashioned – not something that they buy at all. I can’t help feeling that they’re missing out on something wonderful. In the UK at least, Bordeaux is the most traditional of all wine and perhaps has an association with older generations, formal dinners and evening dress. Perhaps that is a factor here. However, Bordeaux’s twin in terms of such associations is Burgundy, which the group that scorned Bordeaux had no qualms about. The negative press on Bordeaux pricing probably contributes to this difference, but I think there’s also something more.
As in restaurants there has been a trend away from white tablecloths and sommeliers with bow ties, towards recycled furniture and bearded mixologists in jeans and t-shirts, so the fashion in wine moves away from the old, and looks to the new and the different. Napoleonic inheritance practices in Burgundy have ensured that land holdings are split amongst a hugely complicated and ever-changing network of often intertwining families, with names old and new constantly emerging and shining brightly or fading. So while Burgundy too has been treasured for generations by the well-heeled, it continues to change more than Bordeaux does and, in the economic climate of the past decade, its image of rustic farmers owning a few rows of vines here and there – even behind the imposing stone walls of many a historic clos – is perhaps more appealing to the modern consumer than the aristocratic or corporate château-owners of the Médoc.
So Bordeaux now has a bit of a PR problem – which, luckily, can work to the advantage of those of us who, rather than trying to get rich from it, happen to think it’s absolutely delicious. Although I adore exploring wine from all over the world, so many of my favourite wine memories have been of perfect (and not always expensive) bottles of Claret. Something these bottles usually have in common is that they’ve been at a perfect stage of maturity – and here we come across what is perceived to be another barrier for Bordeaux: for the real magic, for the fireworks, we need patience while the wines age. However, partly because of the vast scale of production, already mature fine wine is in fact probably easier to buy from Bordeaux than just about anywhere else on the planet. Looking at our list currently, take for example the 1999 Ch. Potensac, at just under £20 per bottle by the case. For all the words I’ve written here, one bottle of this with a Sunday roast would make a far better case than I ever could that we can still get wonderful Claret for extremely fair prices. At perhaps slightly more of a ‘Tuesday evening in front of the TV’ sort of level, 2011 Ch. Cissac would do a similar job at £12.66 by the case. Or, if you do fancy laying something down for future enjoyment, the 2009 Ch. Lafon Rochet, at £31.25 per bottle in bond would compete for value with anything available elsewhere – a world-class wine from a magical vintage, and an example to show that Classed Growth Bordeaux from a legendary recent vintage can remain an excellent buy.
The fact that Bordeaux can not only produce these great reds at almost any price point, but also some magnificent (also often great-value) whites, as well as some of the most exhilarating sweet wines in the world, make this my favourite wine region and one that I feel people would be making a grave mistake in dismissing.
Explore our range of Bordeaux on bbr.com.
Dear Guy,
I feel like you’re my brother (metaphorically speaking, of course) from across the pond. Indeed, there is SO much great Bordeaux, Classified or not, that is simply beyond what any other region is producing from a quality point of view. Sadly, the US is at the same point the UK is at with the younger enthusiasts.
Bordeaux, like many regions, has never been more approachable or delicious and, in the lower price ranges, without having to lay down a wine for fifteen years or more. In fact I worry that a number of châteaux are following California’s lead here in making wine to be drunk upon release (my issue, not necessarily relevant to this post).
It pains me to think that so many people put off Bordeaux because of its old, stuffy image. Even the ‘old’ guys I know that are dyed-in-the-wool Bordeaux aficionados are extremely open-minded when it comes to wine, but they know it really would be an extreme challenge to blind taste a number of wines and find Bordeaux not in the very top of the ranks.
These wines should not be missed and even if younger people think that Bordeaux is for the old guard, it should be explored, if even to see what all the fuss is about. Of course if one drinks a classed growth upon release, there will be disappointment so understanding the prime drinking window of any wine is paramount.
Thank you for sharing this information!
My best regards,
David Boyer
classof1855.com
Thank you very much for taking the time to read and respond so kindly Mr Boyer. I’m glad to hear of the Bordeaux battle being fought across the pond!
Regards,
Guy
Dear Guy, All that you say is true. There is an additional point. However out-dated the 1855 classification, it made for simplistic investment decisions when backed by certain critics and their marking schemes. That was the origin of the over-pricing in terms of the consumer’s image of the wines, and the subsequent collapse of the en primeur market has left people more reluctant to buy, not least because, with a few exceptions, many wines have become available more and more reasonably. Why buy now when something may be cheaper tomorrow? Perhaps the fall in the exchange rate will encourage new buying at least of the landed stocks. Clearly much will depend on the opening prices of the ’15s en primeur.
I agree that the middle range wines offer exceptional value, but the lesser wines show poorly against South American opposition. I do not see that changing in the near future. Regards, Andrew
Dear Andrew,
Thank you for the comments. I agree with you about the 1855 classification and even more so about points, between them they managed to turn Bordeaux into the closest thing wine had to a stock market.
En Primeur is a difficult one. I think there is still some great value there, particularly that gets missed in the low to mid end. Chateau Cissac was £90 per case in bond for the 2009 and 2010 en primeur. Today the 2009 is about twice that if you can find it ad the 2010 probably about 50% up. I realise that’s just one wine out of many but there’s definitely been great buys out there and I think there continues to be.
Pomerol in general is another good spot for en primeur, albeit generally at a higher level. The quantities are low enough if you wait a lot of them tend to have gone.
It slightly depends what you mean by lesser wines and middle end, I would agree that generally in the sub £10 range Bordeaux wouldn’t be my region of choice (with an exception for Good Ordinary Claret!), but I think at from that point upwards it can compete with anything.
Thanks again for reading and engaging, I appreciate it.
Guy