Photograph: Jason Lowe

On the plate: Asparagus is one of the truly great seasonal treats in an age when we are used to eating everything all year. Full-flavoured, deliciously sweet and tender, British asparagus is regularly described as the ‘best in the world’ and it really has no comparison. While the British climate may not be great for getting a tan, but it provides optimum growing conditions for asparagus. The season is relatively short, from April to June, so we are right in the middleat the moment. With such a great ingredient I like to keep things simple to really show off the flavour of the asparagus. This lovely starter is just perfect for early summer lunch or dinner parties.

In the glass: Asparagus isn’t a challenging pairing with wine, well, not more so than broccoli, kohlrabi, cabbage or kale. It’s the fact that these other, worthy vegetables don’t take centre stage, so rightfully prominently, for such a short season that has given the asparagus wine-pairing conundrum such status. We understand asparagus, it’s pungent, light and earthy with a delicate texture. If you can accurately apply those descriptions to the wine you want to pair, you’ll be dining very well.

Thankfully there are a number that fit; Villa Diamante’s Fiano di Avellino for one, with its tight acidity and flinty fruit, is fragrantly expansive. A lighter more generous combination with asparagus is the Samos Muscat which aromatically complements the spring spears so fantastically; although we should wonder if it’s necessary to forego another opportunity for Champagne. Eric Rodez’s Blanc de Noirs has enough of the forest floor alongside perfect Pinot Noir density to make a wonderful partnership. For all the astringency, salt, spice and texture of Stewart’s asparagus mimosa I would suggest Le Soula Blanc; rich and tight, fruity and acidic, mineral and floral, this vinous contradiction does ever so well.