Berrys’ Giro d’Italia 2013 – Vini Italiani for Everyday Drinking
Author: David Berry Green
Approaching it in stages, our ‘Giro d’Italia’ kicks off in the South. Sicily’s Alberto Graci, on the slopes of volcanic Monte Etna, treats us to seismic fruit bowl fireworks from the Nerello Mascalese grape. Puglia’s Benegiamo family at L’Astore Masseria are behind this lush, juicy Primitivo while their Negroamaro fruit turns out a fleshy Rosati (Rosés). Basilicata’s Musto Carmelitano family, on the lava slopes of Monte Vulture, capture the Aglianico grape’s dark damson and blackcurrant notes perfectly.
The Centre of Italy is split by the Apennines. Abruzzo’s Giovanni Faraone in the east makes delicate verbena like whites of the Trebbiano d’Abruzzo grape, while just down the road Col del Mondo’s Fabrizio Mazzocchetti gives us suave forest fruit flavours of the Montepulciano d’Abruzzo grape/wines. On the west side, Francesco Antano in landlocked Umbria makes heady, brambly wines mainly from the Sagrantino di Montefalco grape. His Tuscan neighbours Bibbiano and Scopetone produce prim, scented red-berried wines of the Sangiovese grape, from the Chianti Classico and Montecucco regions respectively.
Completing the Giro in the North, we feature Veneto’s light cherry Valpolicella, care of Novaia, while Emilia-Romagna is home to Castello di Luzzano’s stunningly aromatic white ‘Seta’. My home in Piedmont boasts five classic styles: Cornarea’s peachy Arneis, Marinacci’s violet Dolcetto, Paolo Laiolo’s gentle blackberry Barbera, Casina 460’s Nebbiolo ‘Ansj’ and of course Berry Bros. & Rudd’s new Barolo. The choice on the podium is: Veneto’s mandarin zest Prosecco, Lombardy’s more serious Franciacorta or, for the sweet tooth, Cerutti’s liquid meringue Moscato d’Asti!