Since prodigal son Álvaro returned to the family business in 1999, Bodegas Palacios Remondo has been transformed. This Rioja estate, perched on the eastern edge of the region, crafts glorious site-driven wines, as Tatiana Humphreys discovered on a recent visit

Rafael Palacios is a rare breed: a supreme Spanish winemaking talent whose heart lies with white, not red, grapes. Here, Sophie Thorpe talks to him about the moment he discovered Godello – and why he’s determined to get the grape the acclaim it deserves