The Christmas cocktail

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Ferdinand Billard, who works in our Digital Trading team, has a keen interest in making cocktails. Christmas is the perfect time for the cocktail to shine, and it takes centre stage in his family’s celebrations. He lets us in on some of his favourite festive cocktails.  

Surrounded by twinkling ornaments, the cold, crisp air, and the unmistakable scent of pine trees and mulled wine, one of my favourite times of the year has come around again: Christmas. This season is filled with moments dedicated to conviviality and generosity, shared amongst colleagues, friends, and most importantly, family.  

Despite growing up halfway around the world from the rest of our relatives, my parents always made a point to travel home to France for Christmas, to celebrate with my grandparents. From a very young age, I was exposed to the world of wine and spirits: taking small sips from my grandfather’s glass of Champagne; my mum showing me how to make a Kir Royale, the Burgundian cocktail she grew up drinking. Christmas, for me, has therefore always been composed of delicious food, memorable cocktails and the warmth of family. 

As we gather around the decorated living room, the anticipation builds, filling the air with excitement and joy. While the table, a focal point of our gathering, is being laden with our traditional appetisers – delicate slices of smoked salmon, savoury saucisson and rich foie gras – I start preparing my signature French 75. While it may be a very straightforward drink to make, there are two things I like to put an emphasis on. 

The first is the pop of the Champagne. After shaking and pouring the gin, fresh lemon juice, and sugar syrup into a chilled glass, it’s time to open the first bottle of Champagne. The BANG marks the exciting evening ahead, so make it a spectacle by safely letting the cork fly.  

The second is the garnish. The final touch before drinking, this element really enhances a drink’s appearance, flavours, and aromas. I choose a twisted lemon peel, extracting its oils over the drink and brushing it around the glass’s lip. This stimulates the sense of smell, preparing the brain for the drink’s flavours. 

You could not get more festive and exciting than the French 75. The golden bubbles dancing in the glass, the crisp, dry, refreshing combination of the gin and Champagne all make for the perfect aperitif cocktail, signalling the official start of the evening’s festivities – a cherished tradition in our family. 

As the evening winds down and everyone has enjoyed a hearty meal, it’s the perfect time to settle in front of the fireplace with a nightcap cocktail. My drink of choice is a twist on the classic Old Fashioned, replacing the traditional whisky with either a dark rum or Cognac. While stirring the drinks, I look up and notice my dad and uncle deep in contemplation over which cigar to smoke alongside their drink. My dad picks out his Bolivar, whereas my uncle opts for a Ramón Allones, both Cuban cigars that pair beautifully with the rich cocktail I’ve stirred up. The nightcap is the perfect way to end a memorable evening, bringing warmth and comfort while adding a touch of elegance.  

Moments like these remind me of my love and passion for cocktails – being able to contribute and play a vital role in creating a significant moment with loved ones. The clink of glasses, the shared smiles, and the appreciation in my family’s eyes make every effort worthwhile. It’s not just about the drink itself but the experience and connection it fosters, turning each sip into a cherished memory. These moments of creating and enjoying cocktails together transform simple gatherings into unforgettable experiences. 

This year I’m looking forward to making a few cocktails over Christmas, especially the Sloe Gin Fizz. The additional fruitiness, acidity and red colour of the Sloe Gin will be a welcome alternative to London Dry Gin, pairing beautifully with seafood, such as smoked salmon and oysters, as well as cured meats. 

Explore delicious bottles for crafting your own cocktails here

Category: Miscellaneous

Breakfast to dinner – what to drink on Christmas Day

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Enjoying a glass of fine wine or a zippy cocktail on Christmas Day is an indulgent delight. Here, Alexandra Gray de Walden explains why these special moments can be shared and enjoyed at any time on 25th December.

One of my favourite things about Christmas Day is how the world, seemingly, comes to a standstill. There can be no better opportunity to luxuriate, uninterrupted, in the company of family and friends; better yet, with some indulgent food and remarkable drinks.

In my family, some of our most cherished Christmas traditions developed from the day’s food and drink. Perhaps it is the same in your household? We kick off, naturally, with breakfast.

“I hadn’t the heart to touch my breakfast. I told Jeeves to drink it himself.” – P.G. Wodehouse

I favour scrambled eggs and smoked salmon (or a more sustainable alternative like smoked trout or gravadlax) for Christmas breakfast. Ideally, eggs with yolks as golden as the Angel Gabriel’s wings, topped with a liberal dusting of black pepper and a deluge of lemon juice on the fish. Naturally, this is a dish rich in oil, so you need a drink to cut through it with enough acidity and vibrancy. This calls for bubbles.

While I am a great advocate for the excellent sparkling wines produced here in England, my preference for Christmas breakfast is always Champagne – particularly, Champagne Gosset. Gosset is the oldest wine producer in Champagne and sits in the Grand Cru village of Aÿ. What makes it so perfect for the task of cutting through that fish oil and the buttery eggs is that Gosset is made without the use of malolactic fermentation. This is a common fermentation in winemaking where harder malic acid is converted into softer lactic acid, making for a more rounded, plush mouthfeel. By forgoing this process, Gosset’s wines have a more acute and zesty acidity which is just what is called for here.

Gosset’s Grande Réserve is all you need for Christmas breakfast – zesty, refreshing and ever-so-bubbly. Plus, if you would prefer to keep a clearer head for the day, it makes a tremendous Bucks Fizz or Mimosa.

Those of you who prefer a meatier way of breaking your fast, here’s a suggestion for you. The “full English”, complete with bacon, sausages and (my personal favourite) black pudding is a carnivorous dream when paired with an aged Bordeaux or a rich Rioja.

Our 2018 Own Selection St Estèphe from Château Tronquoy is a Merlot-dominant blend with rich, ripe flavours of plum, celeste cherry and a graphite-like note to the finish. The 2015 Señorio de Amézola, Reserva Rioja from Amézola de la Mora   has its own meaty flavours with notes of equestrian leather – just perfect.

Pre-prandial cocktails

I daren’t open the lid on the debate of Christmas lunch versus Christmas dinner and which is better. If you favour the latter as your main event, then why not consider a pre-dinner cocktail?

My go-to for pre-prandial sipping is always a Bloody Mary. With Polish lineage on one side of my family, I would have to recommend Potocki rye vodka as your base. For extra richness and salinity, add a healthy dose of Fino Sherry to your Bloody Mary. Our Own Selection Fino from Bodegas Emilio Lustau has a delightful sea-breeze quality to it marrying beautifully with the spices – akin to oysters and Tabasco sauce.

Let’s not forget that the very purpose of an apéritif is to awaken the palate and the olfactory system in readiness for enjoying flavoursome food. This is where a sparkling wine comes into play again as the acidity and the fizz rouse the tastebuds.

For something fizzy with a festive colour, try a Sloe Gin Fizz. Light, crisp and refreshing, the dry finish of the Champagne and the citrus zest from the lemon twist ensure you’re all set to enjoy the grand performance.

The main event

It might divide opinion like Marmite but there’s no escaping that turkey is a Christmas classic. If you’re serving yours with cranberry sauce, something as fun as a sparkling rosé will be delightful. The acidity in the cranberry and wine, both with bright, red fruit flavours add more texture and depth to your turkey.  

One of my most memorable Christmas dinners was a homemade beef Wellington. With rich mushroom purée, tender beef and possibly even some prosciutto, there are lots of intermingling flavours competing here. Something with a bit of peppery spice, like an Australian Shiraz or a St Emilion will really complement those mushrooms and the juicy beef.

Pudding and cheese

Once the detritus of the main event has been cleared (and a suitable period of digestion and good conversation has passed), it is time for pudding, followed by cheese.

It’s likely that pudding will be either the traditional Christmas pudding or Christmas cake – each is rich in dried fruit, warming spices and even sometimes a touch of smoke – not always intentionally. With the added sweetness of marzipan and icing on your Christmas cake and perhaps some brandy butter with Christmas pudding, whatever you decide to drink will need a decent amount of sweetness to match.

Thankfully, the wines which match well with your Christmas cake or pudding are also well-matched with your cheeseboard. Take the best-known sweet wine of Bordeaux – Sauternes. This is a time-honoured pairing for blue cheese, with its honeyed fruit quality and luscious texture. Reminiscent of dried citrus fruits, it also plays an excellent second fiddle to the spiced fruits of the pudding and cake.   

Port is an eminently traditional pairing for the latter courses of dinner. A vibrant and bright Ruby Port invigorates the bloom and texture of any cheese. Or why not try a Tawny Port with mince pies for an eruption of spice and rich fruit flavours? Perhaps Father Christmas would prefer that to his nip of brandy when he visits your house?

For something a little off-piste, try Hungary’s sweet Tokaji wines. They often have a note of rye bread or marmalade which taste beautiful with a robust cheese. They’re also sweet enough to enjoy with your pudding, especially a Tokaji Aszú, made with botrytised grapes for extra-concentrated levels of sugar.    

Dropping off with a digestif

As we reach the post-dinner (or lunch) slump, it’s finally that time of day when we can really unwind. Wrapping paper has been shredded, the King has made his speech and the cook of the household can put their feet up. Tummies are likely to be quite full by now so you might be in the mood for a digestif.     

For something classic, there’s a lot to be said for a coating whisky, a smooth Cognac or a rich Armagnac. Neat, on the rocks, with a splash of water – whichever way, just make sure it’s to your taste. Christmas is too special a time for drinking something you don’t enjoy.

For a Berry Bros. & Rudd twist, a King’s Penicillin cocktail harnesses the digestive power of ginger from our King’s Ginger Liqueur, mixed with our Speyside Sherry Cask 12-Year-Old single malt. Warming and soothing, this is best enjoyed with a roaring log fire or your favourite blanket on the sofa – a right royal way to close a magical day with those you love and the moments that make it special.

Category: Bordeaux Wine,Champagne and Sparkling Wine,Cocktails,Food & Wine,Miscellaneous,Own Selection wine,Port and Sherry,Spanish Wine,Spirits,What we're drinking

Wines from Portugal: treasures of the Douro

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Photograph: Jason Lowe

The Douro valley is rightly known for its fortified wines. But its table wines are also well worth exploring, as Barbara Drew MW explains.

When I mention Portugal as a wine-producing country, the reaction is invariably, “Ah yes, Port!” This is often followed by “Ooh, too sweet”, “too alcoholic”, or “not for me”. Those misconceptions are for another article (in short, Port definitely is for you). But for today I want to focus on the still or table wines of Portugal.

This is slightly confusing terminology for the uninitiated and refers to wines that are not fortified; that are made in the same way as other red wines from around the world; wines that in any other region would simply be called “wine”.

The Douro river valley – situated in northern Portugal and heartland of Port production – has to be one of the most beautiful wine regions in the world; a lofty accolade amongst some heavy competition. The river wends and winds between sculpted hillsides and wild vistas. At times it can feel like there is almost nothing else there except slopes and vines and the occasional boat. For centuries the region has been associated with fortified wines – aged in huge warehouses down at the port of Vila Nova de Gaia (just across the river from the city of Porto).

And the grapes that lend themselves so well to these complex, layered and fruit-driven fortified wines are also superb in unfortified wines.

Portugal’s native grapes

Portugal has a wealth of native grape varieties. They thrive in the hot and dry climate of the country’s interior, retaining their acidity and fresh fruit flavours when temperatures soar. Touriga Nacional is perhaps the most recognised – despite accounting for just a few percent of plantings in the country. Other key red grapes include Tinta Roriz (aka Tempranillo), Tinta Francesca, Tinto Cão, Bastardo, Mourisco Tinto, Tinta Amarela and Tinta Barroca.

Most of these grapes tend to produce quite low yields in this harsh and often arid region. The soils here are very poor and the slopes are steep; most vineyards are either built on steep terraces, supported by hand-constructed retaining walls, or else are planted on gently sloping vineyards. Flat land and mechanical harvesters are alien around these parts. The paltry numbers of grapes per vine allow for concentration, of deep colour, high tannin and plenty of flavour.

The resulting wines are magnificent, perfectly balanced despite their full flavours and dense tannins. In addition, some classic French varieties have also found their way here. Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah thrive on the right sites, and are used for the local Vinho Regional wines. Similar to France’s Vin de Pays or Italy’s IGT designation, the Vinho Regional wines allow for more flexibility in how the wine is made – and can offer some of the most innovative, and great value wines to be found.

Whites from the Douro

Whilst the region is very much associated with red grapes, white grapes do thrive here. Many go into the small proportion of White Port produced each year – delicious served with tonic and ice on a warm summer’s day. But some are destined for unfortified wines. The names will test the pronunciation of even the most adept linguist, with Rabigato, Gouveio, Codega, Donzelinho, Malvasia Fina and Viosinho among the list. Many of these grapes are planted on cooler sites, be that north-facing terraces, vineyards that are in shade for the majority of the day or areas at higher altitudes. This, combined with their naturally high acidity, and early picking, results in delightful dry white wines. Often with slightly floral and fruity flavours, these wines are refreshing and balanced.

For me, they are often a failsafe go-to, if you’re not sure if guests will enjoy an oaked Chardonnay or a bright and pungent Sauvignon Blanc. These are white wines which truly have the best of all worlds. Top wines may spend some time in oak, but overall the fruit and mineral character tends to dominate. Like almost all Portuguese wines, they are also criminally underpriced.

Where to find them

This trend towards producing dry table wines began with a handful of Port producers, looking to branch out, develop new products and use grapes not ideally suited to their Ports. Now however almost all Port producers also make table wines. These are no mere product extensions though; there are increasingly fine wines in their own right.

Some take inspiration from other parts of the world. Chryseia, for example, is a collaboration between the Symingtons, locals who have been making Port for centuries, and Bruno Prats, originally of Bordeaux. The glossiness and slight herbal note evident in many good Bordeaux wines also shines through in this example, despite it being made entirely from local grapes (Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca). Others make determinedly local expressions, highlighting the huge range of grape varieties that have made their home here. These may use differing proportions of grapes each year or even field blends (where different varieties are all planted together in one vineyard and harvested at once). Some pick early for fresh, zesty styles. Others age for many months in oak barrels, to add spice and breadth to these hearty wines.

Whichever style you prefer, there is something here for you. And of course, to round off your meal, there’s always a Port.

Three to try

2022 La Rosa Reserve Branco, Quinta de la Rosa, Douro, Portugal

A beautiful white wine, fragrant and floral with a touch of texture from some oak ageing. The blend is 60% Viosinho, 25% Rabigato, 5% Gouveio, and 10% a mixed field blend. One of the most versatile white wines I have yet come across.

2021 Estate Tinto, Quinta de la Rosa, Douro, Portugal

Dominated by Touriga Nacional (60%) this is a delightful expression of a Douro red, coming primarily from the high-altitude Lamelas vineyard. The nose is bright with raspberry syrup and plums, with some smoky spice. The tannins are silky, the acidity is refreshing and the flavours unfold in elegant layers. It is perfect for mid-weight dishes, lamb or duck.

2017 Chryseia, Prats & Symington, Quinta de Roriz, Douro, Portugal Seven years after harvest, this has a huge amount of concentration and complexity on the nose. Dark berry fruits and floral notes appear initially, with aromas of dark chocolate, mocha, roast coffee bean and spicy hints of pepper and clove. The palate is full, multi-layered, and supple, with an excellent level of concentration and ripe tannins providing a considerable structure to the wine. As with the best Bordeaux wines, can be enjoyed now, but will reward further cellaring.

Category: Miscellaneous

Celebrating Thanksgiving: a feast of food and wine

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Photograph: Ideal Imaging – Alistair Jones

For centuries, Thanksgiving has been as big a celebration as Christmas in the USA – if not bigger. This year, we’re hosting our very own Thanksgiving dinner in the cellars of No.3 St James’s Street, celebrating the array of flavours and dishes that have become tradition across the pond. Whether you’ll be joining us, or you’re looking to host your own feast at home, we’ve put together a selection of our favourite bottles that pair well with classic American flavours.

The star of any Thanksgiving feast is, of course, the turkey. In the UK, our Christmas traditions mean we’re well-practiced at finding wines to pair with this most seasonal of birds. As our Christmas feasting guide recommends, a fruity, lower-tannin Zinfandel or Beaujolais Cru, or a riper Chardonnay would match beautifully.

More of a challenge are those dishes less familiar to the UK palate – those rich in a combination of sugar and salt, often featuring heavy influences of fruit, or sweeter vegetables. Most Thanksgiving food is heavy, and served in abundance. With this in mind, opting for lighter wines is a good rule of thumb – think wines that are lower in alcohol, with less noticeable oak, and fresh flavours that won’t overwhelm your already saturated palate.

Stuffing

Christmas dinner lovers, beware – this isn’t the stuffing you might be used to, but it’s no less delicious. Stuffing, or “Thanksgiving dressing”, tends to be a combination of cubed bread – either toasted, or a little stale – sliced vegetables like onion and celery, butter, dried herbs, and broth, all baked together until crisp. Variations might have dried cranberries, apples or sausage meat.

There are so many flavours going on here, that you’ll want a wine that can complement as many of them as possible. A Pinot Noir would be a great option – ideally one from Oregon or New Zealand, where the fruit is bolder than its Burgundian counterparts. This vibrancy will match any fruit in the dish, while keeping enough acidity to cut through the stodgier bread and broth elements. If you’re opting for a white wine, a Côtes du Rhône Blanc would do the trick – the earthier, sage and thyme flavours will strike a pleasant chord with the herbal elements of the dressing.

Sweet potatoes

Sweet potatoes are a stalwart of the Thanksgiving table. Perhaps one of the best-known (and more controversial) versions of it is the sweet potato casserole, a baked mash, mixed with spices like cinnamon and nutmeg, and often topped with marshmallows or pecans.

It’s not a common dish in the UK, but that doesn’t mean anyone enjoying it can’t easily find a wine to match. The key flavour here is sweetness – and lots of it. So, any wine that stands a chance of holding its own needs to have a fair whack of fruitiness, body and complexity to it. An off-dry Riesling would work, as would a Gewürztraminer – the spicy, warming flavours of ginger, clove and nutmeg in the latter combine beautifully with earthy sweet potato.

Green bean casserole

The humble green bean casserole deserves far more worldwide love than it currently holds. The original recipe was devised by an employee of Campbell’s soup, and was a combination of the company’s cream of mushroom soup, green beans, milk and soy sauce, topped with fried onions and baked.

It’s savoury, rich and high in umami flavours – so it needs a high-acid yet weighty wine to balance it out well. This is where Riesling can really shine. Opt for a full-bodied bottle where citrus flavours dominate – you’re going to want a wine that feels like it cuts through the creamy sauce, refreshing your palate and keeping you invigorated.

Pumpkin and pecan pies

Nothing says Thanksgiving more than a pie. Pumpkin is by the far the best-known iteration – but for those not a fan of its earthier flavours, pecan pies offer an alternative.

There are a few different ways you can approach dessert. Most people like a sweet wine with puddings: the nutty, complex flavours of a Tawny Port would combine wonderfully with pecans or anything featuring butterscotch.

For something a little different though, a Cava could be a fantastic option. With slightly earthier tones to it than other sparkling wines, it can enhance and balance these flavours in a pumpkin pie – while its acidity and bubbles help cleanse the palate after what we can imagine will have been a long, heavy meal.

Want more recommendation for pairing festive dishes with wine? Read our guide to Christmas food and wine here.

Category: Miscellaneous