Reflections on London and Burgundy

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Photo credit: Jacqueline Walker

Serena Yeung is one of our Account Managers in Hong Kong. We were delighted to welcome her to London this autumn, and she joined our UK-based Account Managers on an En Primeur trip to Burgundy. Here she shares some of her reflections on her time spent in our St James’s office and in producers’ vineyards.  

Having been with Berry Bros. & Rudd for over eight years, I finally had the chance to visit our UK office for the first time. This was an experience I had eagerly anticipated, and it certainly lived up to my expectations. 

Stepping into the original shop on St. James’s Street felt like walking into a museum. The vintage coffee scales and coffee grinder are beautifully maintained, and the charming antique door handles add a special touch. Meanwhile, our office on Pall Mall strikes a balance between tradition and modernity – stylishly simple, clean, and neat. 

During my visit, I explored our cellars, both steeped in an incredible 326 years of history. Discovering those old, dust-covered bottles, each with its own story, made me reflect on the richness of our heritage. I also had the pleasure of seeing the private event spaces for lunches, dinners and tastings. These rooms exude traditional charm, with over 300 years of history embedded in the wooden ceilings. I was pleasantly surprised by how well preserved everything was, which added to the elegant atmosphere. I truly hope to join some events there in the future; I can only imagine what a unique experience it must be.  

My colleagues in the UK were incredibly welcoming, making me feel right at home. It was delightful to see that they often have wine or spirits opened for tasting, accompanied by training sessions from producers. One highlight was joining a regular meeting and finally meeting many colleagues face-to-face – people I’d only ever communicated with via email. It was a touching experience to connect in person. 

I thoroughly enjoyed my week in the UK. I took the opportunity to run in St. James’s Park, Green Park and Hyde Park, all while enjoying lovely weather. Jogging alongside ducks swimming in the lake and watching children feed squirrels as yellow leaves gently fell around me felt like running through a beautiful painting. 

As I write this, I already miss that week and all the wonderful experiences it brought. I look forward to carrying these memories with me and hope to create more connections between our offices in the future. 

After my visit to the UK office, I was truly honoured to represent the Asia team in Burgundy and partake in the Burgundy 2023 En Primeur tasting. This was my second trip to Burgundy – my last visit in June was filled with lush greenery and sunny skies. However, visiting in November provided a completely different experience, allowing me to witness the vineyards in their stunning winter splendour. 

The weather during our visit was a bit foggy, making navigation challenging and the roads somewhat slippery. I’m especially grateful to my colleagues who drove us to the wineries, ensuring we arrived safely and could fully immerse ourselves in each tasting without worry. 

Throughout my time in Burgundy, I explored over 25 wineries and tasted more than 150 wines. Each producer showcased their unique character, and it was fascinating to interact with winemakers whose wines I’ve enjoyed but never met in person. Hearing their insights and understanding their winemaking processes added immense depth to the wines, making each one come alive with its own story and personality. 

The 2023 Burgundy vintage is truly remarkable – pure, fruity, fresh, and incredibly approachable. Even though these were En Primeur wines, unbottled and still maturing, I found them to be expressive and vibrant. Each sip offered a delightful glimpse into what the final product will deliver, and I couldn’t help but feel excited about their potential. The balance and clarity of the fruit, combined with the finesse of the tannins, suggest that this vintage will be a standout in years to come. 

Visiting the vineyards was another highlight of the trip. Standing in Montrachet, I finally grasped the exact distances between the vines and observed the planting stages up close. This firsthand experience not only solidified my memories but also deepened my appreciation for the meticulous care that goes into cultivating each vineyard. The beauty of the landscape, with its rolling hills, was simply breathtaking. 

This trip to Burgundy was more than just a tasting; it was an unforgettable journey into the heart of an iconic wine country. The connections I made, the wines I tasted, and the sights I experienced will stay with me for years to come. I returned home not only with a greater understanding of Burgundy’s exceptional wines but also with cherished memories that will enrich my ongoing journey in the world of wine. I look forward to sharing these experiences and insights with my colleagues and customers back in Asia, fostering a deeper appreciation for the remarkable wines that Burgundy has to offer. 

Category: Miscellaneous

The joy of a beautifully mature Claret

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Victoria Bull from our Buying team has the pleasure of sourcing bottles from private collections – many of them astonishingly old. Uncorking them is a special moment, a delicate operation accompanied by bated breath and crossed fingers. But in the case of this 1945 vintage from Château Rauzan-Ségla, it was well worth the effort.  

How many people does it take to open a bottle of wine? Well, when the bottle in question is a Berry Bros. & Rudd bottling of a 1945 Château Rauzan-Ségla, from Margaux, there needed to be no fewer than four of us to oversee the operation. One colleague to dutifully provide his Durand – a sleek and efficient bottle-opening device that combines the prongs of the butler’s thief, and the helix of a traditional corkscrew – another colleague to employ said device, and two more of us to look on with bated breath and sweaty palms. The Durand worked its magic, and all at one with the Rauzan-Ségla, we breathed a sigh of relief. With the bottle unlocked, we could assess the liquid within.  

It is a rare occasion when one needs to summon the Durand. It suggests that an especially mature bottle of wine is about to be opened; and a ritual, undertaken with reverence, ensues. Similar to unwrapping a present or placing a small bet on an outside horse; actions of unknown promise, where there is opportunity for disappointment, or great reward.    

The 1945 Rauzan-Ségla was a particularly significant bottle. Now approaching its octogenarian decade, the wine was made in the “victory vintage” – and made, poignantly, mostly by women. This is a vintage that would no doubt garner respect and appreciation, even if the wines hadn’t been so impressive. However, the year was blessed with perfect growing conditions, and it stands with ’21, ’59, ’61 and ’82 as one of the greatest Bordeaux vintages of the 20th century. A severe frost naturally reduced yields, resulting in grapes of great concentration, while the consistent warmth of August and September meant a steady ripening and slow accumulation of sugars. Small berries with ripe tannins promised wines of exceptional longevity.  

The wine was, indeed, a triumph. We were delighted, and the appreciation to be able to try this bottle was felt strongly by all. Extraordinarily, the palate still danced with fresh fruit; more blackberry and currant than red fruits, while the structure was firm. The wine was brooding and concentrated; it immersed our palates with black fruit, while drawing our minds back to the past.  

We poured it alongside ’61s and ’67s, and the difference was remarkable. The ’61s were still holding up well, as showcased by Berry Bros. & Rudd bottlings of Grand Cru Classé châteaux. We also tried some ’67s, a cold year, which resulted in inevitable widespread chaptalisation. The wines were a little thin, but not unpleasant, with some expected cigar box and cedarwood aroma.  

These wines may have passed their expected drinking window, but we were not there for the scores. It was a total pleasure to discover how each wine clearly encapsulated its vintage. In Bordeaux, where the weather is more marginal and less predictable, vintage variation has always been pronounced. Nowadays, with the effects of climate change and continuous improvements in technology and equipment, vintages are more qualitatively consistent. Therefore, when opening a mature bottle, you are placing yourself right back into the summer of ’69 – or in this case ’67, ’61 or ’45 – and sampling a true flavour of history.  

Of course, wines do not need to be half a century old for us to appreciate their age. The 2005 vintage was an exceptional one, producing a bumper crop of ripe berries. Nearly 20 years on, it’s drinking beautifully now. While wines from ’11 and ’13 – vintages oft overlooked, being overshadowed by the quality of ’10 and the drinkability of ’14 – are excellent options, hitting the lovely spot between maturity and affordability. These bottles have all been waiting for the perfect moment to be opened – and that perfect moment is when you decide it to be, whether you need a Durand, or not. 

Explore the wines of Rauzan-Ségla here 

Category: Miscellaneous

The Christmas cocktail

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Ferdinand Billard, who works in our Digital Trading team, has a keen interest in making cocktails. Christmas is the perfect time for the cocktail to shine, and it takes centre stage in his family’s celebrations. He lets us in on some of his favourite festive cocktails.  

Surrounded by twinkling ornaments, the cold, crisp air, and the unmistakable scent of pine trees and mulled wine, one of my favourite times of the year has come around again: Christmas. This season is filled with moments dedicated to conviviality and generosity, shared amongst colleagues, friends, and most importantly, family.  

Despite growing up halfway around the world from the rest of our relatives, my parents always made a point to travel home to France for Christmas, to celebrate with my grandparents. From a very young age, I was exposed to the world of wine and spirits: taking small sips from my grandfather’s glass of Champagne; my mum showing me how to make a Kir Royale, the Burgundian cocktail she grew up drinking. Christmas, for me, has therefore always been composed of delicious food, memorable cocktails and the warmth of family. 

As we gather around the decorated living room, the anticipation builds, filling the air with excitement and joy. While the table, a focal point of our gathering, is being laden with our traditional appetisers – delicate slices of smoked salmon, savoury saucisson and rich foie gras – I start preparing my signature French 75. While it may be a very straightforward drink to make, there are two things I like to put an emphasis on. 

The first is the pop of the Champagne. After shaking and pouring the gin, fresh lemon juice, and sugar syrup into a chilled glass, it’s time to open the first bottle of Champagne. The BANG marks the exciting evening ahead, so make it a spectacle by safely letting the cork fly.  

The second is the garnish. The final touch before drinking, this element really enhances a drink’s appearance, flavours, and aromas. I choose a twisted lemon peel, extracting its oils over the drink and brushing it around the glass’s lip. This stimulates the sense of smell, preparing the brain for the drink’s flavours. 

You could not get more festive and exciting than the French 75. The golden bubbles dancing in the glass, the crisp, dry, refreshing combination of the gin and Champagne all make for the perfect aperitif cocktail, signalling the official start of the evening’s festivities – a cherished tradition in our family. 

As the evening winds down and everyone has enjoyed a hearty meal, it’s the perfect time to settle in front of the fireplace with a nightcap cocktail. My drink of choice is a twist on the classic Old Fashioned, replacing the traditional whisky with either a dark rum or Cognac. While stirring the drinks, I look up and notice my dad and uncle deep in contemplation over which cigar to smoke alongside their drink. My dad picks out his Bolivar, whereas my uncle opts for a Ramón Allones, both Cuban cigars that pair beautifully with the rich cocktail I’ve stirred up. The nightcap is the perfect way to end a memorable evening, bringing warmth and comfort while adding a touch of elegance.  

Moments like these remind me of my love and passion for cocktails – being able to contribute and play a vital role in creating a significant moment with loved ones. The clink of glasses, the shared smiles, and the appreciation in my family’s eyes make every effort worthwhile. It’s not just about the drink itself but the experience and connection it fosters, turning each sip into a cherished memory. These moments of creating and enjoying cocktails together transform simple gatherings into unforgettable experiences. 

This year I’m looking forward to making a few cocktails over Christmas, especially the Sloe Gin Fizz. The additional fruitiness, acidity and red colour of the Sloe Gin will be a welcome alternative to London Dry Gin, pairing beautifully with seafood, such as smoked salmon and oysters, as well as cured meats. 

Explore delicious bottles for crafting your own cocktails here

Category: Miscellaneous

Breakfast to dinner – what to drink on Christmas Day

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Enjoying a glass of fine wine or a zippy cocktail on Christmas Day is an indulgent delight. Here, Alexandra Gray de Walden explains why these special moments can be shared and enjoyed at any time on 25th December.

One of my favourite things about Christmas Day is how the world, seemingly, comes to a standstill. There can be no better opportunity to luxuriate, uninterrupted, in the company of family and friends; better yet, with some indulgent food and remarkable drinks.

In my family, some of our most cherished Christmas traditions developed from the day’s food and drink. Perhaps it is the same in your household? We kick off, naturally, with breakfast.

“I hadn’t the heart to touch my breakfast. I told Jeeves to drink it himself.” – P.G. Wodehouse

I favour scrambled eggs and smoked salmon (or a more sustainable alternative like smoked trout or gravadlax) for Christmas breakfast. Ideally, eggs with yolks as golden as the Angel Gabriel’s wings, topped with a liberal dusting of black pepper and a deluge of lemon juice on the fish. Naturally, this is a dish rich in oil, so you need a drink to cut through it with enough acidity and vibrancy. This calls for bubbles.

While I am a great advocate for the excellent sparkling wines produced here in England, my preference for Christmas breakfast is always Champagne – particularly, Champagne Gosset. Gosset is the oldest wine producer in Champagne and sits in the Grand Cru village of Aÿ. What makes it so perfect for the task of cutting through that fish oil and the buttery eggs is that Gosset is made without the use of malolactic fermentation. This is a common fermentation in winemaking where harder malic acid is converted into softer lactic acid, making for a more rounded, plush mouthfeel. By forgoing this process, Gosset’s wines have a more acute and zesty acidity which is just what is called for here.

Gosset’s Grande Réserve is all you need for Christmas breakfast – zesty, refreshing and ever-so-bubbly. Plus, if you would prefer to keep a clearer head for the day, it makes a tremendous Bucks Fizz or Mimosa.

Those of you who prefer a meatier way of breaking your fast, here’s a suggestion for you. The “full English”, complete with bacon, sausages and (my personal favourite) black pudding is a carnivorous dream when paired with an aged Bordeaux or a rich Rioja.

Our 2018 Own Selection St Estèphe from Château Tronquoy is a Merlot-dominant blend with rich, ripe flavours of plum, celeste cherry and a graphite-like note to the finish. The 2015 Señorio de Amézola, Reserva Rioja from Amézola de la Mora   has its own meaty flavours with notes of equestrian leather – just perfect.

Pre-prandial cocktails

I daren’t open the lid on the debate of Christmas lunch versus Christmas dinner and which is better. If you favour the latter as your main event, then why not consider a pre-dinner cocktail?

My go-to for pre-prandial sipping is always a Bloody Mary. With Polish lineage on one side of my family, I would have to recommend Potocki rye vodka as your base. For extra richness and salinity, add a healthy dose of Fino Sherry to your Bloody Mary. Our Own Selection Fino from Bodegas Emilio Lustau has a delightful sea-breeze quality to it marrying beautifully with the spices – akin to oysters and Tabasco sauce.

Let’s not forget that the very purpose of an apéritif is to awaken the palate and the olfactory system in readiness for enjoying flavoursome food. This is where a sparkling wine comes into play again as the acidity and the fizz rouse the tastebuds.

For something fizzy with a festive colour, try a Sloe Gin Fizz. Light, crisp and refreshing, the dry finish of the Champagne and the citrus zest from the lemon twist ensure you’re all set to enjoy the grand performance.

The main event

It might divide opinion like Marmite but there’s no escaping that turkey is a Christmas classic. If you’re serving yours with cranberry sauce, something as fun as a sparkling rosé will be delightful. The acidity in the cranberry and wine, both with bright, red fruit flavours add more texture and depth to your turkey.  

One of my most memorable Christmas dinners was a homemade beef Wellington. With rich mushroom purée, tender beef and possibly even some prosciutto, there are lots of intermingling flavours competing here. Something with a bit of peppery spice, like an Australian Shiraz or a St Emilion will really complement those mushrooms and the juicy beef.

Pudding and cheese

Once the detritus of the main event has been cleared (and a suitable period of digestion and good conversation has passed), it is time for pudding, followed by cheese.

It’s likely that pudding will be either the traditional Christmas pudding or Christmas cake – each is rich in dried fruit, warming spices and even sometimes a touch of smoke – not always intentionally. With the added sweetness of marzipan and icing on your Christmas cake and perhaps some brandy butter with Christmas pudding, whatever you decide to drink will need a decent amount of sweetness to match.

Thankfully, the wines which match well with your Christmas cake or pudding are also well-matched with your cheeseboard. Take the best-known sweet wine of Bordeaux – Sauternes. This is a time-honoured pairing for blue cheese, with its honeyed fruit quality and luscious texture. Reminiscent of dried citrus fruits, it also plays an excellent second fiddle to the spiced fruits of the pudding and cake.   

Port is an eminently traditional pairing for the latter courses of dinner. A vibrant and bright Ruby Port invigorates the bloom and texture of any cheese. Or why not try a Tawny Port with mince pies for an eruption of spice and rich fruit flavours? Perhaps Father Christmas would prefer that to his nip of brandy when he visits your house?

For something a little off-piste, try Hungary’s sweet Tokaji wines. They often have a note of rye bread or marmalade which taste beautiful with a robust cheese. They’re also sweet enough to enjoy with your pudding, especially a Tokaji Aszú, made with botrytised grapes for extra-concentrated levels of sugar.    

Dropping off with a digestif

As we reach the post-dinner (or lunch) slump, it’s finally that time of day when we can really unwind. Wrapping paper has been shredded, the King has made his speech and the cook of the household can put their feet up. Tummies are likely to be quite full by now so you might be in the mood for a digestif.     

For something classic, there’s a lot to be said for a coating whisky, a smooth Cognac or a rich Armagnac. Neat, on the rocks, with a splash of water – whichever way, just make sure it’s to your taste. Christmas is too special a time for drinking something you don’t enjoy.

For a Berry Bros. & Rudd twist, a King’s Penicillin cocktail harnesses the digestive power of ginger from our King’s Ginger Liqueur, mixed with our Speyside Sherry Cask 12-Year-Old single malt. Warming and soothing, this is best enjoyed with a roaring log fire or your favourite blanket on the sofa – a right royal way to close a magical day with those you love and the moments that make it special.

Category: Bordeaux Wine,Champagne and Sparkling Wine,Cocktails,Food & Wine,Miscellaneous,Own Selection wine,Port and Sherry,Spanish Wine,Spirits,What we're drinking