The Douro valley is rightly known for its fortified wines. But its table wines are also well worth exploring, as Barbara Drew MW explains.

When I mention Portugal as a wine-producing country, the reaction is invariably, “Ah yes, Port!” This is often followed by “Ooh, too sweet”, “too alcoholic”, or “not for me”. Those misconceptions are for another article (in short, Port definitely is for you). But for today I want to focus on the still or table wines of Portugal.

This is slightly confusing terminology for the uninitiated and refers to wines that are not fortified; that are made in the same way as other red wines from around the world; wines that in any other region would simply be called “wine”.

The Douro river valley – situated in northern Portugal and heartland of Port production – has to be one of the most beautiful wine regions in the world; a lofty accolade amongst some heavy competition. The river wends and winds between sculpted hillsides and wild vistas. At times it can feel like there is almost nothing else there except slopes and vines and the occasional boat. For centuries the region has been associated with fortified wines – aged in huge warehouses down at the port of Vila Nova de Gaia (just across the river from the city of Porto).

And the grapes that lend themselves so well to these complex, layered and fruit-driven fortified wines are also superb in unfortified wines.

Portugal’s native grapes

Portugal has a wealth of native grape varieties. They thrive in the hot and dry climate of the country’s interior, retaining their acidity and fresh fruit flavours when temperatures soar. Touriga Nacional is perhaps the most recognised – despite accounting for just a few percent of plantings in the country. Other key red grapes include Tinta Roriz (aka Tempranillo), Tinta Francesca, Tinto Cão, Bastardo, Mourisco Tinto, Tinta Amarela and Tinta Barroca.

Most of these grapes tend to produce quite low yields in this harsh and often arid region. The soils here are very poor and the slopes are steep; most vineyards are either built on steep terraces, supported by hand-constructed retaining walls, or else are planted on gently sloping vineyards. Flat land and mechanical harvesters are alien around these parts. The paltry numbers of grapes per vine allow for concentration, of deep colour, high tannin and plenty of flavour.

The resulting wines are magnificent, perfectly balanced despite their full flavours and dense tannins. In addition, some classic French varieties have also found their way here. Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah thrive on the right sites, and are used for the local Vinho Regional wines. Similar to France’s Vin de Pays or Italy’s IGT designation, the Vinho Regional wines allow for more flexibility in how the wine is made – and can offer some of the most innovative, and great value wines to be found.

Whites from the Douro

Whilst the region is very much associated with red grapes, white grapes do thrive here. Many go into the small proportion of White Port produced each year – delicious served with tonic and ice on a warm summer’s day. But some are destined for unfortified wines. The names will test the pronunciation of even the most adept linguist, with Rabigato, Gouveio, Codega, Donzelinho, Malvasia Fina and Viosinho among the list. Many of these grapes are planted on cooler sites, be that north-facing terraces, vineyards that are in shade for the majority of the day or areas at higher altitudes. This, combined with their naturally high acidity, and early picking, results in delightful dry white wines. Often with slightly floral and fruity flavours, these wines are refreshing and balanced.

For me, they are often a failsafe go-to, if you’re not sure if guests will enjoy an oaked Chardonnay or a bright and pungent Sauvignon Blanc. These are white wines which truly have the best of all worlds. Top wines may spend some time in oak, but overall the fruit and mineral character tends to dominate. Like almost all Portuguese wines, they are also criminally underpriced.

Where to find them

This trend towards producing dry table wines began with a handful of Port producers, looking to branch out, develop new products and use grapes not ideally suited to their Ports. Now however almost all Port producers also make table wines. These are no mere product extensions though; there are increasingly fine wines in their own right.

Some take inspiration from other parts of the world. Chryseia, for example, is a collaboration between the Symingtons, locals who have been making Port for centuries, and Bruno Prats, originally of Bordeaux. The glossiness and slight herbal note evident in many good Bordeaux wines also shines through in this example, despite it being made entirely from local grapes (Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca). Others make determinedly local expressions, highlighting the huge range of grape varieties that have made their home here. These may use differing proportions of grapes each year or even field blends (where different varieties are all planted together in one vineyard and harvested at once). Some pick early for fresh, zesty styles. Others age for many months in oak barrels, to add spice and breadth to these hearty wines.

Whichever style you prefer, there is something here for you. And of course, to round off your meal, there’s always a Port.

Three to try

2022 La Rosa Reserve Branco, Quinta de la Rosa, Douro, Portugal

A beautiful white wine, fragrant and floral with a touch of texture from some oak ageing. The blend is 60% Viosinho, 25% Rabigato, 5% Gouveio, and 10% a mixed field blend. One of the most versatile white wines I have yet come across.

2021 Estate Tinto, Quinta de la Rosa, Douro, Portugal

Dominated by Touriga Nacional (60%) this is a delightful expression of a Douro red, coming primarily from the high-altitude Lamelas vineyard. The nose is bright with raspberry syrup and plums, with some smoky spice. The tannins are silky, the acidity is refreshing and the flavours unfold in elegant layers. It is perfect for mid-weight dishes, lamb or duck.

2017 Chryseia, Prats & Symington, Quinta de Roriz, Douro, Portugal Seven years after harvest, this has a huge amount of concentration and complexity on the nose. Dark berry fruits and floral notes appear initially, with aromas of dark chocolate, mocha, roast coffee bean and spicy hints of pepper and clove. The palate is full, multi-layered, and supple, with an excellent level of concentration and ripe tannins providing a considerable structure to the wine. As with the best Bordeaux wines, can be enjoyed now, but will reward further cellaring.