2016 Berry Bros. & Rudd Grüner Veltliner Weingeberge, Federspiel by Nikolaihof, Wachau, Austria

What is it? Say that three times quickly: yes, it’s a mouthful, but this – our own-label Grüner Veltliner – is a deliciously fresh bottle, and at only 11.5 percent alcohol, seems an appropriately restrained January choice. This is made exclusively for us by the biodynamic estate Nikolaihof (who have long been making some of Austria’s very best wines).

Why’s it different? The Grüner grape is a classic sommelier-favourite, being wonderfully food-friendly (and, normally, a bargain). This example has spent time on its lees (the dead yeast cells from fermentation) in large old oak barrels; this adds layers of complexity, but no dominant oak flavour – it’s pure and mineral with fresh, bright, citrus-edged stone-fruit and a delicate floral note.

What should I eat with it? All sorts of things would work; I’ve got a chicory gratin on my weekend menu that might be just the trick, otherwise anything with a Southeast-Asian twist, or – for a deliciously authentic, but not very diet-friendly option – Wiener Schnitzel (bring on the butter).

How much? £1 for a taste, £17.75 for a bottle

Drop into our London Shop at 63 Pall Mall to taste it for yourself.