Photograph: Jason Lowe

Most of the great  Italian reds from the wonderful 2004 vintage are now coming of age and beginning to drink very well, a decade and a few months after the vintage. Only the very best of 2004 Barolo and Brunello di Montalcino Riserva could do with more time.

Everything made before 2004 is now ready to drink. The very hot 2003 vintage offered up some surprisingly fresh wines from Barolo; many of which are still drinking well and now and even the riservas are beginning to show promise. The wonderful 2001 vintage continues to show well and the ‘lesser’ years of 2000, 2002 and 2005 are also drinking well.

In most cases, the Piedmontese and Tuscan 2006s will need more time, but will be great wines, when the time comes. The 2006s from the rest of Italy, and indeed Chianti Classico, are drinking sublimely now and will continue to do so for some time to come. The 2007s have lovely fruit and their supple tannins mean that many wines, even Barolo, Brunello di Montalcino and their riservas, can be enjoyed now, but there’s no hurry to drink them up.

The classic, cool 2008s will need more time, but in many cases, the forward and fruit-driven 2009s will show well young and it wouldn’t be too much of a crime to start drinking some of the Barolos, Barbarescos and Brunello di Montalcinos now. Other 2009s from around the peninsular will now be offering great drinking.

Read the rest of our series on what to drink in 2015.