At Easter, chocolate takes centre stage, undoubtedly the “grande dame” of our gustatory gorging. The problem is what to drink alongside our leading lady: beautiful and talented she may be, but she’s a challenge to work with.

The first wine tasted was a 2006 Vin Doux Naturel from Domaine Sarda-Malet, with luscious red fruit overlaid by notes of mocha and a slightly earthy element. “It is often not the obvious flavours that one matches, you should look for a compatibility rather than similarity,” said Lee. With this in mind, he suggested a moulded praline noisette that would work alongside the earthy element in the wine. They sat perfectly together.

Our respective experts also tasted Berry Bros. & Rudd’s William Pickering 20-year-old Tawny Port. Matched with crystallised orange peel coated in dark chocolate, it made the Port sweeter and creamier on the finish. The subtle tang and sweetness of both wine and chocolate blended together beautifully.

In 2011, Charbonnel et Walker worked with us to create The King’s Ginger Truffle. Pairing this chocolate with its namesake is an obvious and classic choice. For our tasting we used The King’s Ginger both at room temperature and chilled. At the lower temperature it was the liqueur’s citrus, rather than spice, that dominated the palate, making it perfect, we found, with lemon-based chocolates.

As with wine, Lee emphasised the importance of consuming chocolate at the correct temperature. Horrified at the thought of chocolate being stored in the fridge, he considers the ideal between 18 and 21°C, at which point the texture and flavours are spot on.

Armagnac, Cognac and Tokaji were all also brought to the table, each of them working best alongside a different chocolate (rose cream, dark butter caramel and sea-salt caramel respectively). While the chocolates were individually full-flavoured and delicious, when paired with their respective wines, they combined to form something unique and completely different. Of course, as in all things food and wine, there is an element of personal taste: what works for one person may not for another.

All too often, chocolates can be an afterthought – an accompaniment for coffee, rather than the main event. Our nation, with its (rather controversially) sweet tooth, has become accustomed to sugary treats, their presence in our diet unremarkable, expected and accepted. But fine chocolate, rather like fine wine, remains an indulgence that is to be savoured.