The best of Burgundy: what to drink in 2014


Photograph by Jason Lowe

Photograph by Jason Lowe

Jasper Morris MW, our Burgundy buyer and part-time resident of the region, has delved into his cellars to uncork those bottles which are drinking perfectly right now. The pecking order, he finds, has changed – so read this before you open another bottle…

In Burgundy, I have recently found that 2007 and 2001 have replaced 2000 as the optimum vintages for red Burgundy drinking, while 2006 and 2008 are perhaps still a couple of years short of entering their ideal window. For me, both 2002 and 2003 are accessible but with more to develop – that’s true of 1999 as well – but please don’t touch 2005 for a while yet.

Amongst the whites, there is no need to keep anything older than 2009, except perhaps 2005 where a little superficial evolution belies an intensely youthful core of fruit. The best 2009s should be kept, while 2010 and 2011 may be enjoyed or kept. For Chablis, 2007 is looking very good right now and both 2009 and 2011 should be drunk before the exceptional 2010s.