The best of Burgundy: what to drink in 2014
Author: Jasper Morris MW
Photograph by Jason Lowe
Jasper Morris MW, our Burgundy buyer and part-time resident of the region, has delved into his cellars to uncork those bottles which are drinking perfectly right now. The pecking order, he finds, has changed – so read this before you open another bottle…
In Burgundy, I have recently found that 2007 and 2001 have replaced 2000 as the optimum vintages for red Burgundy drinking, while 2006 and 2008 are perhaps still a couple of years short of entering their ideal window. For me, both 2002 and 2003 are accessible but with more to develop – that’s true of 1999 as well – but please don’t touch 2005 for a while yet.
Amongst the whites, there is no need to keep anything older than 2009, except perhaps 2005 where a little superficial evolution belies an intensely youthful core of fruit. The best 2009s should be kept, while 2010 and 2011 may be enjoyed or kept. For Chablis, 2007 is looking very good right now and both 2009 and 2011 should be drunk before the exceptional 2010s.
What is your opinion on 2004?
2004 is something of a mixed bag, with certainly some wines too much on the green side. Others are delicious lighter style wines, pretty much ready now, for drinking on a spring evening (not enough body for winter). The Monthelie and Volnays from Comte Lafon have been particularly enjoyable.
Jasper, would you open David Clark’s Cote de Nuits Villages 2007 now? And still stay away from his Vosnes 08/09/10/11/12? Shame that he’s stopped making wine!
Hi Maarten, thanks for your comment.
Jasper had this to say:
“The 2007 Cote de Nuits Villages should be great to drink now, Maarten. In an ideal world I would hold back on his Vosne Romanee from all those vintages, though the style of his 2009 makes it approachable now if you want to give it a try.”
What do you consider the best red village wines to drink now?
I have always heard that 2005 have the best village wines you can get right now but don´t open until 2016. Including Cote De Beaune like Volnay for instance. Do you agree?