Frédéric Cayuela is one of our Account Managers in Tokyo, having worked around the world in the wine trade for the last 12 years. Here, he shines a light on the Japanese market – what’s changed since he’s been based there, and what the future might hold.  

My initial interest in wine began as a teenager. I was in Roussillon in the South of France, curiously observing my grandfather drinking his daily glass of wine. My palate was too young, not yet seasoned, so the finer flavours were lost on me. But this memory, combined with my first harvest at the age of 14, stirred an early interest in wine. 

My experience in the wine industry spans 12 years, two of which are here at the Berry Bros. & Rudd office in Tokyo. With about 25 different certifications, I am the embodiment of a “wine nerd”. During my time in France and Singapore, I worked in wine sales; and in Japan, I worked in wine media and as an instructor at the renowned Academie du Vin in Tokyo. 

Japan is a very mature wine market. When I arrived here five years ago, I was thrilled to meet some of the most knowledgeable Burgundy and Bordeaux experts I have ever encountered. That said, the Japanese market has undergone a significant transformation over the past few decades. The high-end French labels that were dominant in the ’90s and early 2000s have given way to a growing demand for Italian wines. This shift can be attributed, in part, to the rise of Italian restaurants in the country, which have quickly become the new standard, replacing the classic French gastronomic establishments. 

Beyond classic and renowned winemakers, I am seeing a growing interest in lesser-known and niche growers. Some regions and producers in this vein are proving especially popular: new generations of artisans in Burgundy such as Pierre Girardin, Alvina Pernot and Théo Dancer; and Dhondt-Grellet and Frédéric Savart in Champagne. There is a harmony between Japanese winemaking and an artisanal approach. Local makers produce wine of a very good quality; their pioneering works are widely admired and they are often depicted as superstars, which is heartening to see.  

I love the fact that Berry Bros. & Rudd has access to thousands of fine wines, unlike some other merchants. The plethora of opportunities means that every day at work is unique. How exciting! Personally, I have a strong inclination towards the wines of Burgundy and Champagne. I’m a passionate advocate for small new growers and artisan makers, and I’m delighted they’re proving popular with the local market here too. 

I also think that Mediterranean wine regions have a bright future in Japan, due to the emergence of a new generation of inventive winemakers. Châteauneuf-du-Pape in the South of France. Rioja and Priorat in Spain. My own French and Spanish origins may have influenced me here, but I’m always amazed by the talent and adaptability of growers in these regions to cope with the rising temperatures and effects of global warming.  

The Japanese market is endlessly exciting, and all sorts of regions and styles have a future here. I’m looking forward to seeing what the years ahead will bring.