A feast of oysters and apples

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Illustration by Eleanor Crow

September brings a cheerful abundance of produce to our shelves, offering plenty of opportunities for seasonal feasting with friends and family. And every feast, no matter how small and ordinary, deserves good wine to elevate the occasion. Discover some seasonal delights and Own Selection wines to pair with them.  

All seasons are beautiful in their own way, but the transition from late summer to early autumn is especially so: golden fields dotted with hay bales, oak trees in full glory, fruit falling in soft heaps on the ground. There’s a sense of the year coming to fruition – a word meaning, in origin, “to enjoy”, sharing the same root with the word “fruit”. This is truly a season in which we get to enjoy edible gifts of all varieties, with blackberries, raspberries, damsons and figs all coming into season.  

But for me, September’s leading fruit has to be the apple. My childhood garden was home to two old apple trees, and I grew up closely connected to their rhythms, the soft blossoms of spring through to the hearty abundance of autumn. Every September, we’re treated to a deluge of huge, bulbous green fruits, lending themselves perfectly to pies, crumbles and chutneys, and seeing us into the darker months with cheer.  

An apple chutney is a beautiful thing, preserving September’s glorious produce for the cold season ahead. With a touch of spice, it can elevate the humblest of dishes to something special. Bringing together elements of saltiness, sweetness, spice and acidity, chutneys offer versatile gastronomic opportunities: curries, roast dinners, sandwiches and cold cuts can all be elevated by a generous dollop. It is the perfect condiment, perhaps.  

If we’re lucky, we still have a few beautiful afternoons left for a late summer picnic. A crusty baguette, an appropriately stinky brie, a jar of apple chutney and a bottle of Good Ordinary White would make a fine al fresco arrangement, with the delicate zest and fresh acidity of the white standing up to the zing of the apples. Come evening, a spoonful alongside your sausages and mash makes for a simple but delicious supper. Sausages and apples: a timeless match, only bettered by wine. A glass of St Emilion from Bordeaux would work very nicely here, with hints of clove spice from time spent in oak speaking to the warm spice of the chutney.  

On a recent camping trip, I discovered the joy of apple cake for the first time. We set up our tents just in time, before the rain forced us into them. Between our tents, we passed around a tin of Yorkshire parkin and a bundle of apple cake wrapped in brown paper. The cake had been a gift to my friend from her neighbour, especially for this trip, and it struck me as one of the most heartfelt things one could give to their neighbour. Alongside a dram of Kilchoman’s gently peated whisky and a good downpour of rain, it was utterly delicious. Soft apples and sweet, fiery smoke – a divine pairing.  

But enough about apples. My next favourite thing about September is the fact that the month has an “R” in its name. If you know how the saying goes, you’ll know that means oysters are on the menu. My favourite way to eat oysters is with a sharp sea breeze, stacked on a paper plate with a good portion of chips. Oysters naturally lend themselves to theatre, whether it is the low-lit drama of a London establishment or huddling around a bench with your friends, trying to stop the seagulls from having at them.

There are lots of delicious things to drink with oysters; their saline quality makes them incredibly versatile. A glass of strong, dark beer is the rustic version (and my favourite to sip on while batting away seagulls). Alongside a well-made Bloody Mary, you have a revivifying aperitif – an excellent after-work combination. But a good wine will really give this scenario a sense of occasion.  

Much has been said about Champagne and oysters, but personally, I’d be inclined to choose something with more delicacy and freshness to preserve their subtle flavour. Our Crémant de Limoux, a favourite of mine for adding a special touch to everyday occasions, would be perfect. For something a little more indulgent, look to our English Sparkling Wine – its lively green apple fizz is wonderful with oysters (and chips).  

Chablis, with its characteristic notes of iodine and oyster shell, should not be overlooked either, offering a crisp and refreshing combination. If you like your wines to have a touch more ripeness, the Swartland White from Eben Sadie gives a hint of peach and chamomile alongside a river-stone purity.  

As a big fan of sweet and salty combinations, I am intrigued by the prospect of oysters and Sauternes – ridiculously aristocratic, purported to be a classic pairing in the 18th century. It wouldn’t necessarily be the first pairing that would spring to my mind, but next time I happen to have an abundance of both at hand, I’ll be sure to try it out.  

Browse all our Own Selection wines here