Schoolboy trivia perhaps that Nebbiolo the grape (Nebuẽ in Piemontese) takes its name from ‘Nebia’ the fog that cloaks the slopes at this time of year. Less observed or well-known is that, according to Teobaldo Rivella of Barbaresco, the fog has become scarce since the early ’90; coincidently tying in with the run of great Piemontese and northern Italian vintages. For in the ‘good ol’days’ the harvest would occur deep in October, not at the end of September as this year. The difference being, apparently, that fog has a detrimental effect on young fruit, triggering rot, but serves as a refreshing wrap for mature bunches, such as those served up by warmer, earlier harvests.

The appearance of thick Nebia over the past three mornings has nonetheless elicited a wave of excitement among the growers; a symptom surely known as ‘nebia nostalgia’ because subconsciously they regard it as nature’s way of telling them the wait’s over, it’s time to pick Italy’s finest black grape. Forget the ‘ban de vendange’, or official start date, which kicked off in mid September and runs through till Natale/Christmas, this is the sign they’ve been waiting for! It’s game on! Evviva!

Teobaldo Rivella’s amazing machine” width=”150″ height=”150″ />But don’t confuse one form of humidity with another: fog is no substitute for rain when it comes to tartufi bianchi or white truffles to you and me. If you’re heading to Alba for the truffle fair running all October, and just before you part with eight Euros for a single shaving (a gram), remember that great grape harvests and true Piemontese truffles do not come as a pair. There was no rain in July and August, just sun thankfully (sorry I’m on the wine side). And so it has been for a few years now: little rain or fog, fewer trees (don’t get me started), ever scarcer truffles but beautiful grape harvests. You should have been here in 2002, after the deluge! So there’ll be no ‘Piemontese’ truffles this month, but maybe some from Croatia or Tuscany. Come back in November for the tiny crop sporn from a week’s drizzle mid September.

You guessed it: I’ve booked my slot with Teobaldo Rivella, Barbaresco producer-cum-trifolaio (truffle hunter); a man who can’t have it both ways obviously. Not that he’s fazed: truffle hunting, as he told me last night over a glass of his fine Montestefano, is more about ‘il mestiere’: the craft of heading out undercover of darkness, in deep winter with one’s faithful hound to continue the ancient tradition practised by his forebears. As a boy he remembers being stirred by the bark of his uncle’s dog as they set off when the moon was just so, candle and wooden chest to hand. There will be no candle nor cavernous chest to fill when I set out later this year, but it’ll be riveting either way.

Here I am talking with Teobaldo and Maria about their harvest:

And again helping them out on the vineyard:

And if you’re curious: my post harvest dinner with Maria and Teobaldo, along with my wife Petronella, roped in for the final few rows, comprised:

Antipasti: salami, prosciutto and creamy panne-like mountain butter; oven-baked peppers filled with a tuna, caper, mayonnaise sauce; veal tongue topped with a parsley/caper/pepper salsa…accompanied by ’08 Montestefano Dolcetto (a delicate violet-scented, liquorice thing)
Primo Piatto: hand made tajarin pasta: silk threads topped with a fine pork sauce…along with a highly charged 2004 Barbaresco Montestefano, still 10 years off its best I reckon. Formaggi: local, firm but creamy Fontina, a gentle Gorgonzola and some mild Sardinian Pecorino…not a Parmiggiano in sight (!) and all perfect with the sublime 1999 Montestefano, a wine that had quite clearly found its stride, such was its total harmony both on nose and palate; truly great wine with years ahead of it.
Dolci: Zabaglione made not with Moscato but with Montestefano!
And as way of finale: Maria’s hand-made Limoncello, issue of their potted tree overlooking Montestefano that rewarded the Rivellas with 150 lemons last year!

Finally, here I am talking to Mario Fontana about his experiences of 2009 and how it has shaped his Nebbiolo:

And so ended a week in which I also ‘entertained’ another sales team from Berrys’ (see photo), the majority of whom were experiencing the pearls of Piedmont for the first time: wine, food, scenery and of course its charming people.

Next week: words of wisdom from the Slow Food movement, plus Barolo starts to harvest…