Delicate, savoury, aromatic and refreshing: sake is just as fascinating and delicious as wine but can be underappreciated. After an off-putting first encounter, Wine Advisor (but sake novice) Joshua Friend explains how he became a convert

Stereotypically snooty, the sommelier has – historically, at least – had a bad rep; here, Joshua Friend explains just why wine service matters and how to make the most of those creating restaurant wine lists