Photography by Jason Lowe

In the Rhône the quartet of fine years from 1998-2001 are all holding up, with 2001 primus inter pares as expected. The 2003 vintage, despite some fulsome praise from a well-known critic, has never really come together. Also 2005, so praised at the time, is also proving recalcitrant, Calvinist even, in stark contrast to the ebullient 2007, which dazzled, especially in the South. The 2006 was under-rated and drinks very well now.

The 2008 vintage was properly fairly ignored, but I suggest that 2011 may surprise a few years down the road. For now, 2012 is set fair, a junior sibling to the superlative 2010, and 2013, perhaps not especially modish elsewhere, will be small but perfectly formed.

Our Rhone 2012 en primeur campaign is now underway. Click bbr.com for more.