Our new Own Selection St Estèphe comes from Château de Pez – a historic winery with a fast-growing reputation. Here, Bordeaux Buyer Georgina Haacke tells us more.

What is it?

Our 2020 St Estèphe is a new addition to our Own Selection. It has been made for us by Château de Pez, a property of increasing renown.

Tell us about Château de Pez.

Château de Pez is a 42-hectare property perched in the north-west of St Estèphe, the most northerly of the Médoc’s four famous communes. The château takes its name from the nearest hamlet, though you’ll see the name “Pez”, which means “peace” in old local dialect, repeated throughout the St Estèphe appellation. (The Cazes family of Château Lynch-Bages also own Château Ormes de Pez, for example.) The estate sits on a plateau, relatively high for the Médoc, on well-drained gravel soils interspersed with clay and limestone subsoils.

The estate can trace its history back to 1452, ranking it among the older of Bordeaux’s châteaux. It lay somewhat in the shadows, however, until 1995, when it was purchased by Champagne Louis Roederer. Recognising its potential, the new owners got to work, rejuvenating the vineyard on a plot-by-plot basis, ensuring that the vines are well matched to the soil types. This laid the foundations for the château’s terroir approach to winemaking.

The talented Nicolas Glumineau joined the Louis Roederer team in 2012. He took over management and winemaking responsibilities here as well as at the prestigious Pauillac estate Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande (often called Château Pichon Comtesse, not to be confused with its neighbour Château Pichon Baron). Nicolas continues to manage, vinify and taste each of Pez’s 70 vineyard plots in isolation. He believes wholeheartedly in the importance of terroir, and that a truly great wine starts in the vineyard.

What does the wine taste like?

There is lovely power to this wine. It has great succulence, with plenty of plump primary fruits. But there is also a firm backbone of tannins that marks it out as a St Estèphe. The wines of St Estèphe have sometimes been known for their austerity, due in part to the appellation’s cooler climate; being located more northerly than St Julien or Margaux, it is more prone to Atlantic influences.

There is nothing austere about this wine, however. It most certainly has structure and dark, brooding fruits with a smoky edge, but there is also freshness and balance. This makes it a delight to drink now, four years after the vintage, but you could also cellar this for five or even 10 more years.

What should I eat with it?

Our new St Estèphe is a wonderful food wine. It would pair well with most red-meat dishes, or really anything that’s hearty and savoury. Try it with a winter stew or a porcini and wild mushroom lasagne.

How should I serve it?

If timing permits, I’d open this an hour or so before serving. If that’s not possible, a quick decant would also work – just enough to aerate the wine and allow the fruit flavours to fully express themselves.

You can buy our 2020 St Estèphe here.

From its early days as a royal favourite, Cristal has become something of a cult icon. Here, we explore how Louis Roederer’s prestige cuvée came to be – and why, beyond the regal favour and even assassination attempts, it is a truly exceptional Champagne.

When you think of luxury Champagnes, which names pop to mind? Veuve Clicquot, Bollinger or Pol Roger perhaps. But there is one which often stands alone as an essence of true luxury and opulence: Cristal.

I will freely admit that prior to joining the wine trade, I thought Cristal was a Champagne House in its own right. It is, in fact, a prestige cuvée of Champagne Louis Roederer – just as Veuve Clicquot has La Grande Dame, Bollinger has La Grande Année and Pol Roger has Sir Winston Churchill.

The eponymous Louis Roederer inherited his uncle’s Champagne House (Dubois Père et Fils) in 1833 and renamed it after himself. When his son, Louis Roederer II, inherited it in 1870, its reputation was already sparkling among the great and good of international society – even royalty.

Tsar Alexander II of Russia was a tremendous fan of Roederer’s Champagnes and requested that the bestof every vintage be reserved for him. In 1876, Louis decided to distinguish the house’s top cuvée for the Tsar alone and it was named Cristal after its costly, clear glass bottle.

Champagne and other sparkling wines were (and still are) usually sold in dark bottles, most often green. This is to protect the liquid from light damage. When exposed to lots of light, particularly artificial light, for example in shops or windows, wine can develop “off” aromas and is, essentially, damaged. This is often referred to as “light strike”. Why the clear glass for Cristal then?

Tsar Alexander II’s reign was a tumultuous time in Russia’s history. He was ever fearful of assassination. Indeed, after three assassination attempts, his fear eventually came to be realised in 1881.

As well as its clear glass, there is another distinguishing feature of the Cristal bottle – its flat bottom. Both were instigated by Tsar Alexander at the Exposition Universelle in Paris in 1867, to reassure him of his safety. At what has since become known as The Three Emperors Dinner, Alexander demanded that the evening’s Champagne be served in clear, flat-bottomed bottles. This would allow him to see the bubbles (in case of a poisoning attempt) and prevent any form of explosive from being hidden in the punt underneath the bottle.  

Cristal has been sold in clear, flat-bottomed bottles ever since. To protect it from potential light strike, the bottles are wrapped in gold cellophane. Ideally, this shouldn’t be removed until you pop the cork.

Speaking of popping corks, what can you expect from a glass of this fabled liquid? Typically a blend of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay, Cristal is only ever produced in the best vintages, when the grapes are healthy and have reached full maturity. It is left to quietly mature on the lees for six years in the cellars at Louis Roederer followed by another eight months after it is disgorged. By the time it reaches your glass, you can expect vibrant flavours of succulent grapefruit, Williams pear and baked apple. The mid-palate brings the autolytic notes of brioche and fresh pastry and there’s an elegant twist of red fruit flavours from the Pinot Noir.  

Whether you’re celebrating a thoroughly special occasion or hosting the dinner party to end all others, your choice of what to drink is Cristal clear.   

Browse our range of Cristal vintages here.

Making wine might sound glamorous to you and me, but it’s a tough job. Here, former winemaker Ben Chan – now a member of our BBX team – recalls a typically non-stop day in the cellar.

“Beep! Beep! Beep!” It must be 5am; it feels like I only closed my eyes a few seconds ago, but here we go.

It’s a warm autumn morning in countryside Australia. After a quick breakfast I’m at the winery and catching up with Drew and Katerina, the night shift team.

They had a good shift, problem-free. The press has only 30 minutes left of its cycle and the next 10 bins of Chardonnay are weighed and ready to go. “Nice one. See you tonight.”

Jean arrives. He’s the vintage intern. His family have a vineyard in the South of France and he’s here to learn how we do things Down Under.

Alcoholic fermentation is underway in some of the tanks. I ask Jean to check the temperature and sugar level of each of them. Managing the fermentation is one of my primary concerns. These checks help me to follow how each tank is progressing and make any adjustments as necessary.

I go to the office to see the boss, who lets me know the vineyard team are machine-harvesting Merlot and hand-picking Pinot Noir.

The press cycle has finished, and Jean is back. I ask if he’d rather clean the press or start the pump-overs and punch-downs for the red wines. He chooses the reds, so it looks like I’m getting wet.

I empty the skins from the press, unplug it, then hop in and hose it out. Next, I jump on the forklift and fill the press with the rest of the Chardonnay. I connect this to the free-run tank, start the pressing cycle and collect a sample for laboratory analysis.

Back in the office we have a taste of the Chardonnay juice and take some measurements. After tasting, we decide it could do with a little more acidity for balance and freshness, so we’ll add some tartaric acid. It’s best to add it before fermentation as the result will be more harmonious.

Jean has laid out samples of all the tanks. They all taste great except for one, which is a bit stinky. During fermentation, yeast can sometimes get stressed and produce sulphides, which smell of rotten eggs. We check the chart; this one is still in the first half of fermentation, so we will give it some air by doing a rack, splash and return. The air will help blow off some of the sulphides and give the yeast a bit of a boost. Hopefully this will clean it up.

We inoculated a tank of Chardonnay yesterday, and we can see that the sugar level has dropped a bit. We’ll transfer this one into smaller oak barrels. Fermenting in barrel gives better oak integration with the fruit, but we want to make sure the fermentation is already going strong. Inoculating in barrel can be riskier as you have multiple vessels to manage.

It’s been a while, so I should check the press. Once I taste an increase in bitterness or a decrease in acidity, I’ll make the cut over to the pressings tank.

I’m hungry; must be lunch time.

The first truck from the vineyard arrives with the Merlot. Back on the forklift, I unload the picking bins and weigh them. Jean has set it up so that the grapes go from the sorting table, through the chiller and into a fermenter tank which holds about 10 tonnes. We’ll keep the must chilled around four degrees Celsius for a day or two before warming and inoculating it with yeast. This cold soak will allow greater extraction of colour, fruit aromas and flavours from the skins without adding too much astringency from the tannins.

Next up is the Pinot Noir. We’ve got just three tonnes of it, so we’ll use smaller open-top fermenters. Open fermenters allow us to use a portion of whole bunches as well as de-stemmed fruit. The whole-bunch element will enhance the bright red-fruit character of the Pinot Noir. These vessels also allow more precise control over smaller batches; we can gently work the cap by hand for lighter extraction.

Jean and I start to barrel down the Chardonnay and clean the processing equipment. Back in the office there are some grape samples from the vineyard: more Chardonnay and Merlot, and some Shiraz. We crush them up, do the chemical analysis and taste. The Chardonnay and Merlot are both ready to be picked, but the Shiraz is a little low in sugar and tastes a touch green, so we’ll leave that to ripen further.

The vineyard team have brought more fruit for processing, so I’m back on the forklift and unloading the truck. I’m probably not going to get to crush this lot, however, as the night shift have arrived. It must be 6pm.

As a member of our expert BBX team, Ben Chan helps our customers make the most of our fine wine exchange. Find out more about BBX here.

Bangkok’s wine scene has transformed dramatically over the past few years, evolving from a relatively niche interest to a vibrant and sophisticated market. This growth can be seen in the ever-improving range of wines, and the knowledge and curiosity of the city’s wine lovers. Joey Luo, one of our Private Account Managers, tells us more about this thriving scene.

I’m originally from Chengdu in China’s Sichuan province, a vibrant city renowned for its pandas, culinary delights and baijiu [grain spirit]. I grew up with fine alcohol in the home, and it was here where I developed an appreciation for quality and complexity.  

This lifelong passion led me to Berry Bros. & Rudd in 2015, starting my career in the Hong Kong office. The local wine scene was flourishing at the time, booming after the removal of wine taxes in 2008. The market there developed a profound understanding of wines, with a particular focus on Bordeaux and Italian regions, which eventually expanded to include Burgundy and Champagne. This dynamic environment gave me a solid understanding of the fine wine market. 

Fast forward three years, and I relocated to Bangkok with my family. Thailand’s capital, at the time, was still home to a relatively niche wine scene compared to the dominant beer market. Having said that, there was a noticeable interest in natural wines, which appealed to consumers due to their fun label designs and modest prices.  

Over the past five years, I’ve witnessed a significant shift in drinking trends in Bangkok. The local wine community has grown, driven by the efforts of wine merchants who have actively promoted wine culture through events and education programs. This concerted effort has resulted in a more knowledgeable and curious consumer base, eager to explore and appreciate fine wines.  

One of the most exciting aspects of Bangkok’s evolving wine scene is the diversity of tastes among local drinkers. While there is still a strong appreciation for famous Bordeaux labels and top Burgundy wines, there is also a burgeoning interest in Grower Champagne and German wines. These wines not only suit the local climate but also pair beautifully with the diverse flavors of Thai cuisine.  

Engaging with local wine enthusiasts has been incredibly rewarding. Their curiosity and openness to new experiences reflect a broader trend towards a more sophisticated and informed wine culture in Bangkok. This shift is also evident in the increasing popularity of wine events and tastings, which provide opportunities for consumers to expand their knowledge and palate.  

Berry Bros. & Rudd has actively participated in fostering this growing wine culture in Bangkok. Since we came out of the pandemic, we’ve had the pleasure of hosting events again, to introduce ourselves to local wine drinkers and share our passion for fine wines. These events have not only helped us connect with the community but have also contributed to the broader appreciation and understanding of high-quality wines. Looking ahead, we’re excited to get to know the Bangkok wine community even more, and inspire new drinkers to join us in this growing movement.  

The transformation of Bangkok’s wine scene is a testament to the city’s evolving tastes and the tireless efforts of those passionately advocating for wine culture. I’m proud to be part of this exciting journey. As we look to the future, we remain committed to fostering a vibrant and informed wine community in Bangkok, one that continues to explore, appreciate, and celebrate the world of fine wines.