On the pour: 2019 Puligny-Montrachet
Author: Harry Roberts
Each month, we spotlight a different wine that’s available to taste in our London Shop at 63 Pall Mall. For July, Wine & Spirits Advisor Harry Roberts has selected our vibrant, floral Puligny-Montrachet from Domaine Jean-Louis Chavy.
What is it?
In Burgundy, 2019 is a curious yet extremely rewarding vintage. Despite the warmth and low rainfall throughout the growing season, the wines that resulted had a remarkable balance of concentration and acidity. Yields were slightly lower compared to the more generous ’17 and ’18 vintage, yet the ’19s offer a vibrant energy that should appeal to most palates.
This wine comes from 10 separate parcels in the village of Puligny-Montrachet, where it’s fermented and matured in 20% new oak.
The nose is vibrant, floral, and bursting with intense citrus notes: lemon and grapefruit in particular. The oak is noticeable but not overpowering, offering subtle hints of vanilla and brioche. The palate is medium bodied and balanced by a lovely vein of acidity which adds an incredible freshness to the wine. The fruit matches the aromas with a touch of white nectarine and green apple added to the mix.
What’s the story behind it?
The Chavy family have been living in the village of Puligny-Montrachet for over 200 years, however it was not until 1986 that they began producing wine under their own label. This change began with Gerard Chavy. The estate has since been spilt between his two sons, Jean-Louis, and Alian since 2005. Jean-Louis is a traditional Burgundian winemaker through his use of whole bunches, natural fermentations, and restraint when it comes to proportions of new oak. His wines are classical, age gracefully, and look to express purity of fruit and terroir.
Jean-Louis currently farms six hectares of vineyards including 0.36 hectares of the famed Premier Cru Les Perrières. Now joined by his son Paul, Jean-Louis has expanded his reach through négociant contracts since 2020. With a new purpose-built, temperature-controlled winery completed in 2004, Jean-Louis’s wines have gone from strength to strength. They are now considered some of the best village and Premier Cru expressions of Chardonnay from Puligny-Montrachet. His attention to detail in the winery is matched by his skill in the vineyard through lutte raisonnée management, hand-harvesting and cultivation of old vines.
What should I drink it with?
It’s delicious with fish. Try bream, seabass or sole, in particular.