Bordeaux 2018: our best-value buys
Author: Max Lalondrelle
2018 Château Lafon-Rochet, St Estèphe
Basile Tesseron is usually quite self-effacing, but he cannot hide the pleasure in his 2018. He likes to age his wine on their lees in barrel and for that you need perfect, healthy skins, which 2018 delivered. The extended lees contact adds an extra level of creaminess to an already interesting and pure expression of savoury, rich fruit. Drink 2026-2038.
Score: 17/20
2018 Château Berliquet, St Emilion
Berliquet was bought by Chanel in 2017, joining its neighbour Château Canon and sharing its team. There is an ambition to increase the Cabernet Franc to 50%, as limestone dominates the small 10-hectare vineyard. The alcohol is 14.5%, but is imperceptible in the tighter, crunchy and drier style. One of the more forthright St Emilions of the vintage. Drink 2026-2038.
Score: 15.5/20
2018 Clos du Marquis, St Julien
The shackles are off this year. This is a full-throttle Clos du Marquis, packed full of interesting, exotic notes. The main flavour keys are Asian: cinnamon, cumin, ginger. The tannins are superbly ripe so that the overall effect is seamless. Yet, with a little examination, the wine is also tightly layered, promising great things for the future. Drink 2024-2038.
Score: 16.5/20
2018 Château Beau-Séjour Bécot, St Emilion
Beau-Séjour Bécot (the “little kiss”) is a 22-hectare single plot, all on limestone. Run by her father Gérard and uncle Dominique for 35 years, with Michel Rolland as a friendly advisor, Juliette Bécot and husband Julien are starting with a lighter touch in the vineyard and cellar. The energy in the wine is a delight, giving the plummy Merlot bounce and immediacy. Drink 2025-2038.
Score: 17/20
2018 Château Troplong Mondot, St Emilion
Troplong’s terroir can produce one of the sturdiest of the great St Emilions, even supporting a rare St Emilion Côtes sighting of Cabernet Sauvignon. Aymeric de Gironde arrived from Cos d’Estournel in 2017 and is aiming for a lighter touch, with higher yields and less oak. The wine is still structured, toasty and spicy, but much less solid. Feels like progress. Drink 2027-2042.
Score: 17/20
Find out more about Bordeaux 2018 here, or shop now on bbr.com
Why is the “The Wine Advocate” review on Ch. Beau-Sejour Bécot talking about 2013 Côte Rôtie Belle Helene?
Dear John,
I’ve passed this on to our web team who will fix this – I’m afraid it is, as you’ve spotted, a note for a different wine. The correct Wine Advocate review (which will appear shortly online) is:
The 2018 Beau-Sejour Becot is composed of 80% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. The Merlot was harvested on September 12-25, and the Cabernet varieties were harvested on October 4, 5 and 10. Yields were 46 hectoliters per hectare, and it is anticipated that the wine will age for 16 months. Sixty-five percent of the wine will be matured in new barriques, while 35% will be aged in vats, amphorae and large oak casks of 20-hectoliter capacity. Deep garnet-purple colored, it leaps from the glass with bold, expressive notions of stewed plums, blackberry pie and Black Forest cake with nuances of menthol, mocha, molten licorice and wild sage plus a waft of lavender. Full-bodied, the palate is laden with latent energy, offering slow-releasing glimpses at dark, seductive berry preserves layers and vibrant earthy accents, framed by firm, grainy tannins and seamless freshness, finishing long and mineral laced.
95-97/100, Lisa Perrotti-Brown
Apologies and thank you for flagging,
Sophie