A taste of Burgundy: jambon persillé and oeufs en meurette
Author: Stewart Turner
With the excess of Christmas just behind us, we turn our attention to the launch of the Burgundy en primeur campaign, and our now famous “La Paulée” dinner. Held within the cellars at No.3, the feast is a small way of thanking all our Burgundy producers for coming to our annual en primeur tasting, and it is always a raucous affair. With this in mind, I thought some classic Burgundian fare might be the order of the day for this month’s post. Here is my take on jambon persillé and oeufs en meurette.
- 3 ham hocks
- 1 large carrot – peeled and cut into large chunks
- 1 large leek – cut into large chunks
- 2 sticks of celery – cut into large chunks
- 1 large onion – peeled and cut into large chunks
- ½ bunch of thyme
- 1 head garlic – split
- 4 bay leaves
- 2 bunches of parsley – picked and chopped (use the stalks in the cooking of the ham)
- 2 shallots – peeled and finely diced
- 2 tbsp capers – chopped
- 1 tbsp grain mustard
Place the hocks in a large pan. Cover with cold water and slowly bring to the boil. Skim off any scum that rises to the surface. When the water is boiling, strain the hocks in a colander and rinse with cold water. Put them back in the pan, cover with cold water and bring back to the boil. Reduce the heat; add the vegetables, thyme, garlic, bay and parsley stalks. Simmer for three and a half hours or until the meat falls from the bone.
Drain the hocks and allow them to cool slightly. Pass the cooking liquor through a fine sieve. Take one litre and simmer until reduced to 500ml, keep the remaining stock for soups etc. Line a terrine mould with cling film. Pick the meat from the hocks discarding the bone, fat and any gristle, but keep the skin. Flake the meat into a bowl. Add the capers, parsley, chopped shallots and mustard. Moisten with the reduced stock and press into the prepared terrine mould. Cover loosely with cling film. Place a light weight on top, refrigerate and chill overnight.
Place any excess reduced stock in a shallow tray and set in the fridge. Scrap any access fat off the skin and press between trays in the fridge. When ready, finely slice the ham skin and deep fry at 160?C until crispy. Dice the set ham jelly. Portion the terrine and serve with the diced jelly, some cornichons and the crispy skin, accompanied by toasted sourdough and some lightly dressed lamb’s lettuce.
- 8 eggs
- 1 bottle of red wine
- 50ml red wine vinegar
- 2 shallots – finely sliced
- 50g button mushrooms – finely sliced
- 2 sprigs thyme
- 2 bay leaves
- 1 clove of garlic – crushed
- 200ml veal stock
- Olive oil
- Salt and freshly ground pepper
- 8 slices of baguette cut on the angle, about 0.5 to 1cm thick
- 100g mixed wild mushrooms
- 80g smoked pancetta lardons
- 20 button onions – peeled
- 2 tbsp flat leaf parsley – chopped
Start by making the sauce: gently fry the sliced shallots, garlic and mushrooms in a splash of olive oil until nicely golden. Add half the red wine with the thyme and bay, then reduce by two thirds. Add the veal stock and reduce by half. Pass through a fine sieve and set aside.
Place the button onions in a pan and just cover with water. Add a good knob of butter and season with salt and pepper. Cook over a medium heat until the water has evaporated and the onions are lovely and glazed. Drizzle the baguette slices with olive oil and toast under a hot grill. Rub each with a cut garlic clove and set aside.
Fry the lardons until just starting to brown, then add the mushroom and a knob of butter. Fry until golden, drain and keep warm.
Bring the remaining wine and red wine vinegar to the boil. Break the eggs, one at a time, into the places where the liquid is bubbling, so the bubbles spin the eggs. Lower the heat and poach the eggs for three minutes, until they are just set but the yolk is still runny. Remove the eggs and drain on kitchen paper. Trim off the stringy edges with scissors.
Heat the sauce and whisk in 40g diced, cold butter. To serve, warm the mushroom and bacon with the button onions. Finish with the chopped parsley and season. Spoon the mix onto the toasted baguette and place an egg on the top. Spoon over the sauce and serve immediately.